The judges
Simon Field MW
Field was a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than 20 years and now consults on areas that particularly interested him during that time, with the Rhône, Languedoc and Champagne topping the list in France, and Spain and the fortified category also featuring prominently. André Jacquart, Expérience Blanc de Blancs Brut 1er Cru Brut NV
not to be confused with the large co-op, André Jacquart makes exemplary Chardonnay Champagnes in the villages of Vertus and le Mesnil. the marriage of oak with a steely freshness is absolutely textbook and the wine is exceptional value! 95 Drink 2018-2022 Lopez-Martin, Blason d’Argent Brut NV
new to me, this grower is based in hautvillers, home of Dom Pérignon no less. Despite the distinctly iberian name, this is a most commendable effort and dramatically superior to a Cava! 94 Drink 2018-2020 Alfred Gratien, Brut
Wonderful, if not surprising, to see the great house of Gratien scoring so well. oak is evidenced, as always, but nicolas Jaeger has laced it with freshness and lift, perfectly complementing the autolytic complexity beneath. 94 Drink 2018-2020
Andy Howard MW
A Master of Wine since 2011, Howard worked as senior wine buyer at Marks & Spencer for six years to 2013. He now runs consultancy Vinetrades, which focuses on education, investment and sourcing. Key areas of expertise are Burgundy and Italy, and he has a house in Gaillac.
My top three
Collard-Picard Cuvée Sélection Brut NV
A consistently highly rated grower Champagne. old foudres are used for 15 months, prior to three years’ lees ageing. this gives many extra layers of complexity, combining freshness, power and some biscuity, honeyed notes. 91 Drink 2018-2020 Gobillard Grand Réserve 1er Cru Brut NV
located in hautvillers, just 5km outside epernay, this is a wonderful small family-owned house that is now in its fifth generation. Aged for three years, this is a classic blend of Chardonnay and the two Pinots. 93 Drink 2018-2020
Delamotte, Brut NV A small but very high-quality house, located in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. Delamotte is closely related to cult Champagne Salon, yet at a much more approachable price. Delectable Chardonnay leads the way here. 90 Drink 2018-2022
David Vareille
Head sommelier at The Arts Club in London, Vareille was raised in Chablis and began his career at 16 at the Michelin-starred La Salamandre. He moved to the UK in 2004 and has worked at top venues including L’Enclume, Hotel du Vin group, Bleeding Heart and Bar Boulud.
My top three
André Jacquart, Expérience Blanc de Blancs Brut 1er Cru Brut NV
this opened up an enormous array of surprises. André Jacquart filled the gap brilliantly, punching way above its weight class – not what you’d expect from an entry-level product. 95 Drink 2018-2022 Lopez-Martin, Blason d’Argent Brut NV
this was more mature, surfing at the edge of evolution without crossing the limit. once again, totally unexpected at this price range – i know for a fact that some premium Champagnes are not as balanced as this one. 94 Drink 2018-2020 Gobillard Grande Réserve 1er Cru Brut NV
Gobillard has a very pronounced profile. My personal tastes lean towards a fresher, more energetic style, but you can’t ignore how well made and intensely flavoured this Champagne is. 94 Drink 2018-2020