South American Chardonnay: my top 20 up to £20
There’s a world of Chardonnay out there to try, and while it will always be subject to differing opinions, it remains the world’s favourite white wine grape. Peter Richards MW focused on quality and value to pick his 20 top Chardonnays from around South A
Peter Richards MW
According to the US parenting website BabyCenter, the girl’s name Chardonnay saw its usage peak in the 1990s, at 47 babies per million. It has declined since, to the point where www.parents.com ranked it the fourth worst baby name of 2019, stating: ‘Only next-level wine moms need consider this one.’
That’s Chardonnay: ubiquitous yet often invisible, fashion victim and victim of fashion. According to Kym Anderson’s Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where? (University of Adelaide Press, 2013), the worldwide Chardonnay vineyard nearly trebled between 1990 and 2010. An OIV study in 2017 cited Chardonnay as the fifth most widely planted wine grape variety in the world, with an area of 211,000 hectares globally.
There’s a yawning gulf between the deplorable and the divine when it comes to Chardonnay – yet many regions manage to produce both. South America is no exception.
Chile has the largest plantings of Chardonnay in South America, with 11,297ha (8% of the national vineyard). It’s the fourth most widely planted variety after Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, producing 91 million litres of wine in 2019.
While there’s a fair amount of commercial dross, the overall standard of Chilean Chardonnay has improved markedly of late as producers promote freshness, typicity and, at the very top end, terroir. Quality hotspots include Limarí, Aconcagua Costa, Casablanca, San Antonio and Malleco. The deep south looks to hold good potential for the future, and there are promising things emerging from cooler Andean altitudes in the east.
Given that only 19% of Argentina’s vineyard is dedicated to white varieties, it’s little surprise that Chardonnay accounts for a paltry 3% of national plantings. With 6,044ha, it ranks sixth after Malbec, Bonarda, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah and Torrontés. And yet the country’s finest Chardonnays have set an impressive standard – some of the best are grown at breathless altitude in the Uco region of Mendoza, with Tupungato a particular area of note. There are also good examples from the cooler latitudes of Patagonia further south.
Accurate data are hard to come by for
Brazil, but Chardonnay undoubtedly ranks as one of the top Vitis vinifera plantings, mainly for sparkling wine, but also still. Producers such as Guaspari, Pizzato and Valduga have shown the potential for expressive, elegant styles. In Uruguay, Chardonnay ranks a measly ninth in plantings, with 104ha, yet the natural freshness, purity and refinement of the better examples clearly suggest a bright future for the variety, especially in more Atlantic terroirs. Chardonnay can also be found in Bolivia, Peru and further afield.
In order to select my top 20, I tasted 74 Chardonnays from Chile, Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay blind in February 2020. The best were re-tasted across another four sessions, all blind, one including food. The focus was on wines available in the UK (or US) market and under £20. Scores take price into account. The results reveal a commendably high hit rate, the sweet spot being in the £12-£20 range, with producers clearly prioritising freshness and texture, both essential qualities in the best Chardonnay. Wine lovers seeking alternatives to Burgundy and its pricey cousins would do well to check these out.
‘The results reveal a commendably high hit rate, the sweet spot being in the £12-£ 20 range’
1 Arboleda, Aconcagua Costa, Chile 2017 94
£ 16.95 Corney & Barrow
Beautifully judged Chardonnay with real energy and focus. Excellent fruit quality and freshness allied to a well-integrated, praline and creamy-textured generosity. The oak is deftly integrated and the quality of both the vineyard site and winemaking expertise is evident. Drink 2020-2025 Alcohol 13%
2 Caliterra, Tributo Single Vineyard,
Casablanca Valley, Chile 2018 94
£ 11.35-£ 15.95 Vagabond, The Solent Cellar, Wine Direct
Great value. Even though it’s oaked, this is a style more reminiscent of Chablis on speed, majoring on vibrant, crisp, crunchy citrus and green-apple fruit. Wonderfully harmonious and persistent with an attractive leesy texture and stony quality. Really cultured and classy. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13%
3 Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa, Chile 2018 93
£ 17.50-£ 18 Hennings, Noble Green
The 2018 vintage was one of the coolest ever recorded in this vineyard, and the results, up to and including the top brand, Pizarras, are impressive. The focus on terroir, elegance and energy is commendable, and this wine is a beautifully poised expression of Chardonnay’s apple freshness with creamy texture. There’s an underlying minerality here that offsets the vibrant acidity and savoury depths to electric effect. Drink 2020-2023 Alc 13%
4 Errazuriz, Max Reserva, Aconcagua
Costa, Chile 2017 93
£ 13.23-£ 15.40 D Byrne & Co, The Drink Shop, Wine Direct
Errazuriz is doing an outstanding job with Chardonnay and is now undoubtedly a leading name on the world stage. This is a style that wears its oak on its sleeve but in a stylish way, with toasted-nut and clotted-cream aromas leading into a complex but refreshing palate and an energetic, revitalising finish. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 13%
5 Terrazas de los Andes, Reserva,
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2018 93
£ 15.95-£ 16.99 Clos 19, ND John, Ocado
Brimming with fresh curry-leaf and struck-match aromas, this is a wine with a very distinctive (‘reductive’) character. It’s well judged, though, and has just enough fruit weight to balance the toasty, savoury overlay. A food wine – put it with chicken and mushroom pie or a chunk of cheddar. Drink 2020-2023 Alc 14% ➢
6 Atamisque, Catalpa Single Vineyard, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2018 92
£20 Corks, Starmore Boss
Proper Chardonnay! Cultured in feel, good fresh acidity with lovely body, breadth and depth. A relatively full-bodied style in the context, somewhat heavy-handed on the finish but nonetheless very drinkable and rewarding. Chill it properly and serve it with hearty food. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 14%
7 Errazuriz, Wild Ferment, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2018
92
£ 13.99-£ 16.99 Asda, Hennings
One of the best-value Chardonnays from Errazuriz, and the easiest to find in the UK (the 2017 vintage is also excellent). Lovely balance of savoury and fruity characters, with minerality and a creamy texture. Stylish, lively, food friendly. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13% 8 Finca Flichman, Dedicado Tupungato Vineyard, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2017 92
£ 19.99 Available via UK agent Liberty Wines
A generous, friendly Chardonnay that wraps your taste buds in an expansive bear hug of rich, golden flavours. Broad, creamy texture with flavours of toasted nuts and red apple. Effusive but stylish – lots of wine here. Drink 2020-2023 Alc 13%
9 Undurraga, TH, Limarí Valley, Chile 2016
92
£ 17.59 Fintry Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Strictly Wine
An extroverted style that sees flavours of roasted nuts, butter and red apple cascade over your palate. It’s very much at the creamy and generous end of the spectrum, the bottle age accentuating this character, but the fresh acidity and LImarí minerality balance it out nicely. One for Chardonnay hedonists. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 13%
10 Volcanes de Chile, Tectonia, Malleco Valley, Chile 2017 92
£ 19.99 Simply Wines Direct
Malleco is a quality hotspot for Chilean Chardonnay, the cool southerly region giving naturally vibrant acidity and ageworthy styles. This is a full-throttle style within that context, exuding ripe-peach and red-apple fruit flavours, plus marked buttery and frangipane notes, with an intense, spicy finish. All more or less held in check by a savoury, nutty profile and juicy, mouthwatering acidity. Somewhat breathless. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 13%
11 Cono Sur, Single Vineyard Block 5 Quebrada Alta, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2018 91 £ 13.99 Majestic
Both fleshy and racy, this is a finely balanced Chardonnay with notes of clotted cream, lemon curd and fresh red apples. It’s a style that grows on you incrementally, with plenty to say for itself. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13.5%
12 Familia Schroeder, Alpataco, Patagonia,
Argentina 2018 91
£ 12.49-£ 13.95 Ellis of Richmond, Frazier’s, ThirtyFifty
A gentle, unadorned rendition of Chardonnay, and very welcome for it. Crisp, fresh and upbeat – moreish and mouthwatering. An ideal aperitif or accompaniment for an oyster or two. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 13%
13 Viña Edén, Maldonado, Uruguay 2017 91
N/A UK www.vinaeden.com.uy
Viña Edén, as the name intimates, is a captivating place, from the striking architecture to the panoramic views out towards Punta del Este and the Atlantic coast. It’s a relative newcomer on the Uruguayan scene but already making waves with its carefully crafted wines, this one an understated but richly textured rendition with a hint of orange rind. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 12% 14 Concha y Toro, Marqués de Casa Concha, Limarí Valley, Chile 2017 90 £ 12.99 Tesco, TJ Wines, Villeneuve Wines
Smoky, rich and generous. Since launching its Maycas operation, Concha y Toro has been sourcing more and more Chardonnay from Limarí, and here’s why – the generous flavours are underscored by a fine balancing acidity and gentle earthiness and minerality. Toasty, peachy flavours and a touch of spice. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 14%
15 Familia Falasco, Hermandad Single Vineyard, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina
2017 90
£ 19.99 Bonafide Wines, Flagship Wines, House of Townend, The Oxford
Wine Co, Vinos Latinos
Takes a short while to get going in the glass, but when it does, it’s brimful of praline and tropical fruit with a wonderfully vibrant acidity and lifting spice on the finish. Grown at 1,150m altitude in Vista
Flores (Uco). Drink 2020-2022 Alc 13% ➢
16 Santa Carolina, Reserva de Familia, Itata Valley, Chile 2018 90
£20 Available via UK agent Ehrmanns
There’s both a ponderous richness and bright energy to this wine that just about manage to co-exist. On the one hand is the leesy, lactic, creamy, biscuity breadth of the thing. On the other is the appley acidity and energetic, spicy character. Tame it with a mushroom risotto. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 13.5%
17 Morandé, Gran Reserva Single Vineyard, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2016 89
£ 14.99 Berkmann
Okay, so it’s a bit old school (that whiff of popcorn is undeniable), but it’s also pretty winning. Generous flavours of clotted cream and buttered toast are matched by a lime-scented freshness underscoring it all. Rich but balanced. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 13.5%
18 Zuccardi, Apelación Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2018 88
£ 15.95-£ 17.75 Handford, Tanners
The emphasis here is on freshness and upbeat, unalloyed fruit character. There’s a deft attention to detail in terms of the texture and stony hints, too. Flavours of fresh pears and peaches with hints of blanched nuts. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 13.5%
19 De Martino, Legado Reserva, Limarí Valley, Chile 2017 87
£ 11.99-£ 13.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, Christopher Keiller, Hic, L’Art du Vin, NY
Wines of Cambridge, Vintriloquy, Waitrose
An understated style with a gently enticing nose of fresh peach, melon and a hint of curry leaf. Elegant balance of fruit freshness and savoury, creamy elements. Subtle and stylish. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 13.5%
20 Familia Deicas, Single Vineyard Juanicó, Canelones, Uruguay 2019 87
£ 19 Vinos Latinos
Plush and expansive, with a sour cream and roasted-lemon character. It’s a generous wine that harks back to Chardonnays of the past, but it’s a style that grows on you, winning you over with its insistent acidity and peachy fruit. Drink 2020-2021 Alc 13.5% D