Brook’s pick: the best of Brumont
Château Montus, Blanc, Pacherenc du Vic- Bilh Sec 2012 92
£ 29.95-£ 35.95 (2013) Christopher Keiller, Hennings, South Downs Cellars, WoodWinters The full straw colour is a bit alarming, but there’s no oxidation here. The nose is waxy, with apricot aromas. Rich and creamy, this is very concentrated and spicy, lifted by fine acidity. It displays energy as well as opulence, and it’s long. Drink 2020-2022 Alcohol 15%
Château Montus, XL, Madiran 2000 95
£82 Thorman Hunt
Opaque red. Despite the bottle age, the nose remains surprisingly closed. In contrast, the palate is rich and concentrated, with dark chocolate and black fruits blending together. Yet it has drive and freshness too, and fine tannins. There’s nothing overbearing about it, for all its power. The finish is exceptionally persistent. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 15%
Château Montus, Cuvée Prestige, Madiran 2009 93
£ 54.75-£ 59.99 (2002) AG Wines, Hedonism, Hennings, Joseph Barnes Wines Direct, The Smiling Grape Co
Even in its eleventh year, the colour remains opaque red. There’s a wealth of plum and black-cherry on the nose, with a perceptible oakiness and a chocolatey tone. Suave and very rich, it shows depth and spice as well as immense concentration, but it’s balanced by high acidity that keeps it taut. Powerful and long. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 15%
Château Montus, La Tyre, Madiran 2009 93
£ 101.68-£ 109.48 (2011) Cru, The Wine Society, Wineye
A selection of the best grapes of a single plot in the commune of Castelnau-Rivière-Basse. The nose is lush and damsony, showing a seductive richness of fruit. Velvety and very concentrated, it nonetheless has vivid acidity and spice. The alcohol gives it a peppery and long, bitter-chocolate finish. Perhaps too much of a good thing, but this is undeniably impressive. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 15%
Château Bouscassé, Vieilles Vignes, Madiran 2010 92
£ 32.99-£ 39.99 (2008) AG Wines, Joseph Barnes Wines Direct, The Smiling Grape Co, Thorman Hunt
The black-fruited nose is almost Porty, with thick blackberry aromas. Very rich and concentrated, like most Brumont Madirans this shows a great deal of heft and power. The tannins are still a touch brutal, giving a solid and monumental style, with a long, spicy finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14.5%
Château Bouscassé, Argile Rouge, Madiran 2011 91
£ 22 (2015) Thorman Hunt
One third each of Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, from a single
parcel on red clay soils, rare in France’s southwest, resulting in a more supple style of Madiran, though it can still age well. Inexpressive on the nose, yet suave and concentrated, with formidable texture and spice, polished tannins, and a long, velvety finish. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14.5%
Château Montus, Madiran 2010 91 £ 29.99-£ 34.99 (2014) Christopher Piper, Corks, Philglas & Swiggot, Selfridges
Tannat with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on steep slopes of rounded pebbles. A nose swathed in black fruits, but with a rich herbal quality too. Very ripe and juicy, it has concentration and sucrosity without jamminess. Taut, spicy, good acidity, ample power, though perhaps at the expense of finesse. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 15%
Château Bouscassé, Frimaire, Pacherenc du Vic- Bilh Doux 2010 94 £49 Thorman Hunt
Made from fruit picked on 10 December. The colour is a full gold, while the sumptuous nose has aromas of oranges, peach and honey. It’s the Petit Manseng that gives this wine its leanness and precision, as well as its bright flavours of mandarins and apricot. Silky but dry, this shows amazing length.
Drink 2020-2032 Alc 13%