Château Tour Haut-Caussan

I was once served this wine over lunch at a classed growth, and I was sufficiently impressed to seek it out in subsequent vintages. I am rarely disappointed. It is owned by Philippe Courrian, who for many years has preferred to live in Corbières, where he has another wine estate. This property at Blaignan is run by siblings Fabien and Véronique. Even back in the 1970s, Philippe Courrian was a believer in low yields, and his children have maintained the standards he set.

The property’s 17ha are divided between two sectors: on the plateau of Potensac, and on clay-limestone soils near a windmill set on a point said (as are a few others) to be the highest spot in the northern Médoc. The vineyards are split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with, since 2018, a dash of Petit Verdot. The average age of the vines is 50 years.

The harvest is manual. No new oak has been used since hail wiped out most of the crop in 2014, but gradually it will be re-introduced. There is no fining or filtration. This is an honest, concentrated and stylish Médoc, well balanced with no excesses, and it often shows surprising longevity.

Château Tour Haut- Caussan, Médoc CB 2016 91 £ 15.99 (2014) Majestic

Exuberant and stylish on the nose, this displays splendid blackcurrant aromas. It’s concentrated but plump and slightly soft, though there are polished tannins and fine acidity. Elegant and long, with discreet structure. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14%

Château Tour Haut- Caussan, Médoc CB 2010 91 N/A UK www.tourhautcaussan.com

Still very deep in colour in its 10th year, this has a lean, oaky, blackcurrant nose of considerable finesse. Juicy and supple, this is medium-bodied but concentrated, with polished tannins and good acidity. It’s drinking well now and has a long, peppery finish. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13.5%