Château Les Ormes Sorbet

I first met Jean Boivert some 20 years ago at the Médoc Marathon, but sadly he died young, in 2004. His 19ha property remains in safe hands, run by his steely widow Hélène and their two sons, Vincent and François. The Boivert family has owned the estate since 1764. Theirs is a classic wine, produced from vineyards dispersed throughout the neighbourhood of Couquèques, where the winery is based. The soil is sandy gravel over a deep limestone subsoil.

Cabernet Sauvignon dominates with twothirds of the plantings, which takes some courage in this northerly location. And some of the Petit Verdot is more than 70 years old. The harvest is manual, drawing on families of Romany travellers who have been coming here for three decades. The vinification is unremarkable, but the Boiverts are shifting gradually from selected to indigenous yeasts. Ageing takes place for up to 14 months in 20%-40% new Tarransaud barrels before bottling without filtration.

I would describe these as careful wines: not super-concentrated or flamboyant, but marked in their youth by firm, even austere tannins, and then, with more maturity, showing elegance and balance.

Château Les Ormes Sorbet, Médoc CB 2016 91 N/A UK www.ormes-sorbet.com

Perfumed blackcurrant fruit leaps from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied yet concentrated, with ample grip on the mid-palate. It’s a touch austere now but spicy and persistent, with good acidity. Fine potential. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 13.5%

Château Les Ormes Sorbet, Médoc CB 2011 90 £ 10.50 (ib) Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare

Many 2011 wines remain a touch austere. This is no exception, but it’s developing complexity. The nose is lightly savoury, with blackcurrant and liquorice. Tannins are firm, with a minty oakiness and vigour. Long, chewy finish. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 13.5%