Château Laujac
The Danish négociant Hermann Cruse made Bordeaux history when, in a courageous roll of the dice, he bought up almost the entire 1847 vintage in 1848, as the market was troubled by revolutionary agitation across Europe. He cleaned up and went on a spending spree, acquiring Château Pontet-Cantet, Château Giscours and other properties. He also bought Laujac near Bégadan, as it was a working farm as well as a vineyard.
With 80ha under vine, it remains an important estate, and it’s now owned by his descendant Vanessa Cruse and her urbane husband René-Philippe Duboscq. Cattle still roam the pastures, and the vineyards, planted to 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, are farmed conscientiously, aided by complimentary fertilisers from the animals. The finished wine generally has 60% Cabernet, preserving its Médocain character.
I tasted Laujac extensively in the 1990s and the wines were undistinguished. Today they are fresher, fruitier and well balanced. They are not over-ambitious – this is probably a good rather than great terroir – but they admirably meet a need for stylish, discreetly oaked claret suited to pleasurable mediumterm drinking.
Château Laujac, Médoc CB 2016 90
£ 7.92 (ib) Davy’s
Even in 2016, Laujac hasn’t gone all-out for extraction, and even the colour is only a moderately deep red. The nose has intense cherry aromas with a dash of vanilla, but on the palate it’s concentrated and assertive, although the tannins are supple. There’s welcome acidity, and the finish is balanced, stylish and long. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13.5%
Château Laujac, Médoc CB 2014 89
£ 17.95 Davy’s
Surprisingly, this 2014 shows more depth of colour than the superior 2016. There are ripe blackberry aromas on the nose. The attack is fresh and svelte, and the firm acidity gives tension. Spicy, elegant and long. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 13.5%