MY CHRISTCHURCH
In the face of adversity, this New Zealand city has rebuilt itself with community at its foundation – evident in its welcoming restaurants, wine bars and destination wineries. It’s an exciting time to visit, says Jo Bates
Momentum is gathering in Christchurch that will shake off any unwanted monikers associated with the earthquakes that have reshaped New Zealand’s southern city. Nearly 10 years into its recovery, a new city and skyline are forming.
The city changes daily as buildings are completed and heritage treasures restored. Neo-Gothic civic buildings and modernist gems were felled in 2011, but enough remain that the landscape is still aesthetically rich.
Yet perhaps it’s the less tangible forces emerging from the rubble that are truly shaping the city.
Christchurch had earned a reputation for conservatism. When the chandeliers and chimneys came down in the quakes, the social barriers fell too. Conduits for new ways of thinking burst forth.
Yet while this new course was well underway, the city was hit again – this time by a terror attack in March 2019 that targeted the Muslim community. The nation went into shock as 51 people were killed by a lone gunman. Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern responded with compassion, and the people of Christchurch doubled down and opened their hearts and homes to their Muslim neighbours.
It’s a lot for a city to endure, let alone overcome. However, many locals say that the new social fabric is far more sustainable. The city will never be the same, nor does it want to be. The energy and dynamism is palpable – the groundswell is that anything can achieved, which makes Christchurch an exciting place to be right now.
There’s much to do in the city itself, the ocean is a 20-minute drive east, and the North Canterbury wine region is less than an hour’s drive north.
Exploring the coast is a must, and the Godley Head walkway is a prime spot. Starting at Taylors Mistake beach, you’ll walk past a string of Kiwiana cribs (humble little holiday homes), then scene-stealing views.
On the way back, take Summit
Road to Lyttelton, a port town full of character and characters. Stop at Civil & Naval, a bar-eatery where local musos muse alongside wharfies thumbing copies of The New Yorker.
About 70 wineries dot the North Canterbury region, with its own distinctive microclimate. It’s home to destination wineries such as Black Estate and Pegasus Bay, which have award-winning restaurants.
As a wine region, North Canterbury is still finding its identity. However, it’s evolving as a hub for organic and biodynamic wine (and food), with the The Hermit Ram, Greystone, Pegasus Bay, The Boneline and Terrace Edge leading the way. Come for the North Canterbury Food & Wine Festival in March (www.ncwineandfood.co.nz) or the South Island Wine & Food Festival in December (www.winefestival.co.nz).