Paul Hobbs: a ‘gringo’ winemaker in Uruguay
American consultant winemaker
Paul Hobbs has been visiting Uruguay since the early 1990s. Today, he is a consultant for the Deicas family projects, one of the most dynamic forces on the new Uruguayan scene.
What are the differences between viticulture in Uruguay and the rest of South America?
Everything. Mainly because the climate here is majorly different relative to any of the well-known wine regions of Argentina or Chile – it’s drier and warmer. Climate impacts the entire biosphere, so the soils are unique too. Viticulturally speaking, it’s unlike any other place on the continent.
How have Uruguay’s wines developed since your first visit?
Fast. In the 1990s I was struck by how backwards the industry was – it made Argentina look positively space age. There was an intense, driving will to improve, but we were racked by where to get the money to finance these capital-intensive dreams. Today, I can only speculate on how they did it, but when I returned 17 years later to work with Deicas, I really could not believe my eyes. Certainly it didn’t hurt that deep-pocketed foreign investments were made – for example at Garzón – but Deicas and others had advanced in major ways as well.
You’ve worked in numerous vineyards throughout Uruguay. Which area has provided you with the most satisfaction?
Of the Deicas holdings, which are diverse and extensive, ironically one of my favourites is its home vineyard in Canelones. I didn’t expect much from the relatively heavy clay soils, but I was wrong. I found energy, vitality, freshness and finesse.
Tannat is considered Uruguay’s unique selling point, but is there another grape that has potential? The short answer is that we don’t really have a handle on this yet, but we are working hard on it. Several white classical varietals certainly excel, while some rarified varieties such as Petit Manseng can be very good. Merlot, Marselan and Cabernet Franc all show promise.
What are the major challenges for Uruguay?
There are major challenges to making great wine anywhere. Years ago, economic factors and climate would have been my answer. Today, I don’t see either of those as concerns. For Uruguayan producers it strikes me that the next big hurdle is gaining international awareness and being accorded due respect for the beautiful wines they are making.