HAUT-MEDOC

To understand why this was a shoo-in for cru bourgeois exceptionnel, you have to look at the organisation of the three estates that fall under the same Héritiers Vincent Mulliez umbrella (bought by the late Vincent Mulliez in 2004, now run by his wife and children). Belle-Vue, Bolaire and de Gironville are close to each other in the southern Haut-Médoc commune of Macau but treated separately according to their soils. The 15ha Belle-Vue is on fine, deep gravel that gives complexity and depth, and produces great wines year after year. The talented Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, of Château Pédesclaux in Pauillac, was technical director from 2004-2011, then consultant until 2019, and leaves them in an extremely strong position. Plantings in 2019 were 40% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Carmenère – and they are looking to introduce Malbec into the vineyards to complete the full range of classic Bordeaux varieties.

Château Belle-Vue, Haut- Médoc CB 2016 93

£ 12 (ib)-£ 19.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Crump Richmond Shaw, Millésima, Wineye

Clear austerity here; this is a wine that you would be extremely happy to own because it has persistent, sappy black-fruit flavours with a mouthwatering finish. Good balance. Concentration is hidden rather than overt, but the tannins are all clearly there, and this feels sure to age well. Petit Verdot adds colour and spice. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13.5%