ST-ESTEPHE
Château Paveil de Luze, Margaux CB 2016 90
£42-£44 (2015) Made in Little France, Montrachet, The Wine Reserve
Approaching readiness, the oak remains a little dominant but there is a ripe berry-fruit feel that ripples through as the wine opens in the glass. Fresh acidity holds your attention through the palate, with touches of peony flowers on the finish. 2021-2038 Alc 13.5%
A property that has reaped the benefit of slow and steady investment since the arrival in 1995 of Vignobles Dourthe – the vineyard arm of a Bordeaux négociant that has built a quality-focused portfolio. The property is found at 18m on a gravel outcrop over clay, overlooking the Gironde estuary, with a Château Calon Ségur plot on one side and a Sociando-Mallet one on the other. Director Patrick Jestin and estate director Frédéric Bonnaffous are serious about quality – there has been a gravity-fed cellar since 1997, and optical sorting was introduced in 2015. The 18ha vineyard is planted to 56% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, at a density of 9,250v/ha. There has been extensive replanting in the vineyard, and careful work to ensure the right rootstocks are in place, matching soil types and grape varieties. The percentage of Cabernet Sauvigon has also been raised, all harvesting switched to manual, and the best plots undergo integral vinification in barrel.
Château Le Boscq, St- Estèphe CB 2016 92 £ 29.95-£ 33.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants,
Handford, Millésima, Montrachet
This is good quality, creamy in texture with ripe fruit that feels ready to drink now but should also age for at least another decade. One of my favourites of this line-up, not hugely concentrated but elegant and highly enjoyable. Carries the vintage well. Drink 2020-2034 Alc 13.5%
family bought and is where they still base themselves when in Bordeaux, although they now have a number to choose from, including Château Pédesclaux in Pauillac. Now standing at 80ha in all, the estate has grown in size since their arrival, most recently with the addition of vineyards from Châteaux Tour de Pez and Clauzet. Emmanuel Cruse of Château d’Issan is managing director, working alongside Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen as technical director and Eric Boissenot as consultant. It is set on the Cos plateau, with deep gravels over a limestone subsoil, planted at 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc.
Château Lilian Ladouys, St- Estèphe CB 2016 92
£ 15.50 (ib)-£ 33 Balthazar, Berry Bros Exchange, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Christopher Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Four Walls, Montrachet
A touch of reduction on the first nose clears to show tight tannins that retain their austerity, even at four years old. Shows signs of having a long life ahead, and is serious in tone and its delivery of cassis and blackberry fruit. Concentrated, well balanced, enjoyable; although the 2010 remains for me the standard-bearer of quality at this estate.
2021-2038 Alc 13.5%
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