My top 20: great South African Cabernet Sauvignon Christian Eedes
Cabernet Sauvignon is South Africa’s most widely planted red grape and third most-planted variety overall – 10,087ha were in the ground by the end of 2019, equivalent to 11% of the national vineyard. It has been around since the late part of the 19th century and traditionally made South Africa’s most prestigious reds. That said, one of the reasons it is so ubiquitous is because of how adaptable it is, retaining a recognisable character even when planted in less suitable locations.
It should also be noted that South Africa’s Cabernet Sauvignon plantings have decreased by 19.1% between 2009 and 2019; of the nation’s top 10 varieties, only Sauvignon Blanc and Pinotage are more widely distributed than they were a decade ago.
While Cabernet Sauvignon is frequently blended with other varieties (many producers employing the Bordeaux template to good effect), it can stand alone triumphantly. One of the variety’s greatest attributes is its ability to mature gracefully, and South Africa is no different in this regard – the GS 1966 by George Spies and Nederburg’s 1974 (Decanter April 2019 issue) are the stuff of legend.
Stellenbosch is the district most closely associated with high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon, and there are good reasons for this. Soils provide just the right amount of vigour in the vineyard canopy, while proximity to the ocean ensures moderate growing conditions: days that are not too hot and nights that are not too cold. Grape prices have climbed sharply here in recent times and there are several major new planting initiatives underway.
Right balance
Modern-era South African Cabernet Sauvignon has had a checkered history. There was a point in the mid-2000s when many wines appeared excessively green or herbaceous (leaf-roll virus, which stifles the vine’s production and ripening ability, was a major problem in this regard). In reaction to this, many winemakers gunned for fruit power at all costs, and the resulting wines then became overblown. Thankfully, there is now far more refinement to be had.
‘We’ve realised that “optimal ripeness” is not an absolute concept,’ says Christo Le Riche of Le Riche Wines. ‘We’re increasingly moving away from very big wines. Deciding when to pick is less about pleasing the critic and more about expressing the site and being true to a house style.’
Undoubtedly the best examples of South African Cabernet now display more purity of fruit and better tannin management than they have for a long time. It equates to greater precision in both vineyard and cellar: plant material has improved, grapes increasingly seem to be picked at optimum ripeness, the fermentation and macerations are less violent, and the use of oak is more judicious. By virtue of the South African sun, concentration is a given, but there’s now greater balance too.
The wines are certainly more accessible in their youth than their counterparts of yesteryear and it will be fascinating to see if they still have the inherent structure to age well. The jury is out on this last point.
Regarding recent vintages, 2016 seems to be the really duff one of recent times, the wines often prone to premature development. The good news is that, despite the drought that prevailed, both the 2015 and 2017 vintages are proving to be truly great, and collectors are advised not to miss out. The 2015s tend to be lush and weighty while the 2017s have clarity of fruit and verve.
Even the Cabernets from 2018 – a vintage that to date has gone somewhat unheralded by commentators – seem to be showing well.
They perhaps don’t have quite the same concentration as the 2017s, but make up for this in terms of elegance. co. za,
Winemag.
Decanter. com/Premium
Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch 2017
96 £23.99
Museum Wines, Roberson, Vin Cognito
American-born José Conde and team make various versions of Cabernet Sauvignon, including the premium, essentially singlevineyard Three Pines (see p72), and this one, which might equally be considered an estate blend: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 4% Petite Sirah, 2% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc. It comes across as seamless, providing a sense of both poise and tightness. Red and black berries, violets and some leafiness plus a little reduction on the nose, while the palate shows pure fruit, bright acidity and firm but fine tannins. Drink 2020-2027 Alcohol 14%
Boschendal, 1685, Stellenbosch 2017
94
N/A UK
www. boschendal.com
Boschendal is owned by major producer-wholesaler DGB, and this offering presents excellent quality for price. Grapes come from various Stellenbosch vineyards and maturation lasts 15 months in first- to fourth-fill 300-litre barrels. Dark berries, some leafiness plus vanilla on the nose, while the palate is full but balanced – a good core of fruit and smooth tannins. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 14%
Oldenburg, Stellenbosch 2018
94 £ 19.95
Jeroboams
South African-born, Switzerland-based stockbroker Adrian Vanderspuy acquired Oldenburg in 2003 with the primary intention of making a top Cabernet Sauvignon. This 2018 is carefully made with admirable elegance. Aromas of red and black fruit, an attractive leafy note along with pencil shavings lead to a medium-bodied palate with good fruit expression, bright acidity and a savoury finish. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14.3%
Restless River, Main Road & Dignity, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay 2016
93
£49-£55 Lay & Wheeler, Philglas & Swiggot, Swig, The Good Wine Shop, VinoSA
When current owner-winemaker Craig Wessels first acquired this property – in an area famed for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – he was advised to pull up the Cabernet Sauvignon vines. He decided not to, and this wine is now very fine – albeit in a lighter, fresher style than you might typically expect from Stellenbosch. This 2016 vintage shows particular intricacy. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 14.2%