Chilean trailblazers: Richards’ dozen
La Ronciere, Licantén Idahue Estate Malbec, Licantén, Curicó 2017 94
£ 13.95 Corney & Barrow, Vin Cognito
The Idahue estate is a special place, carved out of rugged hillsides in Curicó’s coastal hills. The Pacific ocean influence tempers the climate, making for notably elegant, refreshing, nuanced reds. Chile needs more of this kind of pioneering initiative – because the wines are seriously exciting. This Malbec is vibrant and winning, utterly self-assured. It brims with floral and wild berry character, followed up by a juicy, refreshing yet complex palate. Compelling – and outstanding value for money. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14%
Lapostolle, VIGNO Carignan, Maule
2018 93
£ 18.49 All About Wine
The challenge with old-vine Chilean Carignan is prioritising elegance over power. Yet winemaker Andrea León has worked her customary magic on this beautifully perfumed, juicy, finely poised wine from Truquilemu that is without doubt one of the finest and most consistent VIGNOs on the market. It has all the joy of Carignan’s punchy blue and black fruit, assertive yet fine tannin and an engaging energy at its core. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14%
Carmen, DO Matorral Chileno Mezcla Tinta, Melozal, Maule 2019 92
£ 35 Cambridge Wine Royston, Vindependents Emily Faulconer is doing brilliant things at Carmen. This is an arresting, vivid blend of Carignan, Grenache and País from old vines in the Melozal area of Maule. Faulconer has wisely chosen not to temper the natural vivacity of the fruit by ageing in oak – and the result is a joyful expression of a deft blend, full of wild mint, ripe cherry, fine tannin and refreshing acidity. Upbeat, food-friendly and hard not to love. Drink 2020-2023 Alc 13.5%
Carter Mollenhauer, VIGNO Carignan, Maule Valley 2018 92
£ 25 Naked Wines
Edgard Carter and Karine Mollenhauer are married winemakers who launched their eponymous operation in 2014. The accent is very much on winemaking in a natural, traditional style and this comes through in the wines, which are unashamedly
Viña San Pedro Tarapacá, Tayu 1865 Pinot Noir, Malleco 2019
N/A UK www. sanpedro.cl
If the debut Tayu Pinot 2018 was all about restrained elegance, this 2019 (a warmer vintage) is altogether more sturdy and intense. It still comes with a characteristic hint of wild mint and underlying juicy freshness, just with more spicy black-fruit intensity on the palate. It’s young, yet very rewarding. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 12.5%
Dagaz, Itatino Cinsault, Secano Interior 2019 89
N/A UK www.dagazwines.com
Former San Pedro head winemaker Marco Puyo makes wine under the Dagaz brand from both Colchagua and Itata. Cinsault is the focus in the latter, another underrated grape in Chile but one slowly coming back to prominence as a result of improved viticulture and sensitive winemaking. This was the first vintage fermented in concrete eggs; full of freshness and bright cherry fruit. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 13.7%
Las Niñas, Amante Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon- Merlot, Colchagua 2017 89
£ 20 Vintage Roots
Forget the ongoing ownership issues
– Las Niñas has never made better wines than now. Winemaker Eugenio Lira is trying to be different: ‘ Wines from Apalta are generally big and ripe,’ he says, ‘but I make skinnier styles.’ This 80-20 blend bears him out: a firm-grained, serious and refreshing red. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 14%