Hay

Hay can be found as a dried herbaceous or vegetative aroma in wine, in the same range as notes of straw, tobacco or tea. It’s usually expressed in less fruit-forward white wines, and possibly alongside herbs and sweet floral aromas of honey or blossom.

Hay can be a secondary aroma associated with yeast influences from wines rested on the lees, or those that have undergone bâtonnage (lees-stirring). This is commonly associated with some Champagnes.

As an indication of development in the bottle, hay can also appear as a tertiary aroma, typically in mature white Burgundies, along with other aromas such as lanolin, oatmeal or mushroom.

The smell of mouldy hay can be a sign of microbial spoilage or brettanomyces contamination, which can give a wine that smells more like a manure-laden farmyard. With such dank or mouldy notes, it’s a question of balance; aromas such as damp hay, wet wool or ‘sweaty saddle’ may seem unpleasant to the imagination – but in wine, sometimes even the most unlikely aromas can be powerfully alluring if counterbalanced in correct proportion.

residual sugar. In 2013, regulations changed significantly, removing the three and four Puttonyos categories. The minimum level is now equivalent to five Puttonyos, meaning at least 120g/L of residual sugar. At six Puttonyos, wines must contain at least 150g/L. High as these sugar levels sound, the beauty of Tokaji is that it is always underscored by a streak of acidity. In practice, producers choose to label according to the balance of the wine, as long as it meets the legal minimum.

Five Puttonyos wines balance sweetness and refreshing crispness, which means they can match pâté, Asian dishes and lighter cheeses brilliantly, as well as fruit-based desserts. Six Puttonyos is more about luscious sweetness, although the acidity guarantees that the best wines are never cloying. Try the wines with full-flavoured cheese, especially blue cheese, which is a match made in heaven.

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