Sauternes & Barsac
The average yield of the classified growths in 2019 was 10hl/ha – less than half the allowable maximum yield of 25hl/ha in these appellations (which itself is about half that of most Bordeaux red wine APs). Winemakers had to wait for noble rot to set in, after beautiful summer conditions that lasted well until late September. The botrytis eventually developed in early October, on already concentrated grapes, resulting in luscious flavours. However, sour rot also set in quickly and there was a race against time to sort the grapes as fast as possible, with some estates losing up to two-thirds of grapes. Having said that, these talented winemakers are accustomed to challenges, and among the best estates I found 2019 to be not only rich and concentrated but also precise, with high aromatics and good balance overall. Some great Sauternes and Barsac wines to choose from – and as ever, some truly excellent dry whites.
1 TOP SCORING Château Doisy- Daëne, L’Extravagant 98
As ever with this wine, you wait for the hit of sweetness that seems inevitable when you see the name and instead you are surprised by just how tight the flavours are, and how soaring the lift on the finish. Apricot balanced by apricot pit, creamy citrus balanced by citrus peel and zest, all rolled up with white truffle and soft pepper notes. Drink 2022-2050 Alc 12.9%
2 TOP SCORING Château LafauriePeyraguey 1CC 98
An absolutely delicious wine, just dripping with apricot, nectarine, white truffle and ginger, with a zing of lemon zest taking things up a notch through the finish.
Fleshy yet flinty, silky texture, brilliant.
Will age for decades too. Drink 2022-2045
Château Coutet 1CC 97
Intense exotic fruits abound, powerful apricot, nectarine, white flowers and white truffles with excellent bitter almonds on the finish that works so well as a counterpoint to the luxurious texture. I love this, silky and seductive yet strict. Drink 2022-2050
Château de Fargues 97
Easy to get a crush on this wine in 2019. Expertly whipped-up ginger and spice pulses right across the palate, giving a counterpoint to the creamy, silky fruits. You get the full array of flavours here – nectarine, citrus, white peach and pink grapefruit are perhaps the most dominant. Grips on tightly with a hint of steel despite the evident concentration. This is brilliant. Drink 2022-2045 Alc 13.7%
Château Doisy- Daëne 2CC 96
Utterly moreish and mouthfilling, tons of creamy lemon tart, flaky pastry against rich nectarine, tart citrus and lime. Clearly this is a concentrated and gourmet year, but this has delicious balance. Excellent quality, love it. Drink 2022-2045 Alc 13.2%
Château Doisy-Védrines 2CC 96
This is a vintage that really suits the Barsac wines, because they have the concentration and richess that is inevitable with the heat and small yields of 2019, but still manage a grip and salinity that ensures brilliant balance and a moreish, mouthwatering finish. With orange peel on the finish, this is great. Drink 2020-2048 Alc 13.8%
Château Guiraud 1CC 96
The freshness that you always get in Guiraud is particularly welcome among the rich style of Sauternes in 2019, and this is definitely one to recommend and seek out. Citrus, lime and lime zest, a lovely uplift on the finish and clear saline twist on the finish. Drink 2022-2050 Alc 13.5%
3 TOP VALUE Domaine de L’Alliance, Esquisse 96
The most beautiful tightrope balancing act of sweet nectarine flesh with intense lime and lemon zest. One of the best Sauternes you can find, without question one to convert the doubters. It’s not as luscious as some – perhaps some will be disappointed as it’s not hugely sweet – but it has laser-like focus and great structure, and for me it is an example of where Sauternes can successfully go to find new consumers. One of the names to watch in this appellation. Organic. Drink 2021-2042
Château Raymond- Lafon 95
Enticingly golden colour, concentration on the attack which gives way to a perfectly judged balance of fresh acidities and creamy nectarine and white peach fruits. Silky texture all the way through, with a just-bitter-enough citrus and orange zest finish. A brilliant Raymond Lafon, one of my favourites for years. Drink 2022-2042
Château Sigalas Rabaud 1CC 95
This is a great Sauternes, an expert mix of rich, creamy stone fruits and deep candied ginger notes that add the most beautiful spice and just the right amount of bitterness. Lovely texture, excellent quality. Drink 2022-2045 Alc 13.5%
Clos Haut- Peyraguey 1CC 94
Bernard Magrez has owned this classified property since 2012, and Michel Rolland is consultant. This is liquid silk, luscious in this vintage, with orange zest on the finish adding a welcome point of bitterness. Tasted three times. 35% of production in this first wine. Drink 2022-2040
TOP VALUE Château La Tour Blanche 1CC 93
Pink grapefruit and citrus hit you from the off, a lovely mix of sweet and tart. There’s a silkiness that becomes clear from the mid-palate onwards and the Semillon is very much dominant in its texture and succulence. Drink 2022-2042 Alc 13.5%