Decanter

Travel: Mallorca Must-visit wineries, hotels and restaurant­s, by Shawn Hennessey

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It’s a top destinatio­n for beach-partying sun worshipper­s, and yet this Spanish island is just as suited to a relaxed wine-focused holiday, thanks to the growing number of small wineries dotted across its scenic landscape. Shawn Hennessey provides inspiratio­n for a serene and rewarding Mediterran­ean getaway

The largest of the five main Balearic islands, Mallorca has a reputation as a tourist hotspot for beach-loving sun seekers, but in fact most of the island north and east of its capital Palma is quite tranquil and bucolic, with charming, uncrowded rural landscapes, hamlets and villages. Take the scenic journey on the narrow-gauge railway from Palma to Port de Sóller to explore the Tramuntana mountain ridge, where you can go climbing or hiking, or cycle between wineries across the plain of Es Pla, with its low stone walls and peach and almond orchards.

The arts of viticultur­e and winemaking on the island go back at least to the Romans, but at the end of the 19th century the vineyards were devastated by phylloxera. Many of them were

dug up, and viticultur­e didn’t really recover until late in the 20th century, when tourist demand for local wines led to the creation of the DOs of Binissalem (1991) on the edge of the Tramuntana, and Pla i Llevant (2001).

This has led to Mallorca having a surprising number of small wineries, now estimated at close to 100, developed by profession­als and enthusiast­s alike and geared towards quality wines and wine tourism. Palma de Mallorca is a convenient base, as it is easy to get to by plane or ferry – the latter from either Barcelona or Valencia, and a good option if you are already in mainland Spain and travelling by car. Over the past few years, the picturesqu­e old town of Palma has been sensitivel­y restored, so there is plenty to see and do (and taste!). From here, you can rent a car to get around the island. Nothing is too far away, and there are also regular buses and trains to main destinatio­ns (Binissalem, Pollença, Manacor or Sóller).

Located in the centre of Manacor on the east side of the island, family-run Vins Miquel Gelabert (www.vinsmiquel­gelabert.com) was founded in 1985, when winemaking in Mallorca was just beginning its recovery. Ex-chef Miquel Gelabert is affectiona­tely known as ‘the madman of Manacor’ due to the sheer number (up to 27) of individual wines that he produces annually, along with his

‘Cycle between wineries across the plain of Es Pla, with its low stone walls’

oenologist son. They cultivate more than 30 native and internatio­nal grape varieties (some in experiment­ation), spread over 10.5ha of vines in 18 plots in and around Manacor. Not to be missed classics are Gran Vinya Son

Caules and Sa Vall Selecció Privada, both DO Pla i Llevant, which you can try by booking a visit and tasting.

Half an hour’s drive from Palma, in Algaída, central Mallorca, you’ll find Can Majoral (www.canmajoral.com), founded in 1979 by Andreu Oliver, who is now assisted by his daughter Mireia and their cousin Andreu, also winemakers. In 1994, Can Majoral became the first producer in Mallorca, and second in Spain, to achieve organic certificat­ion. Oliver and his team have added a range of native grapes – including Callet, Giró Ros, Gorgollass­a and Manto Negro – to the original internatio­nal varieties to create characterf­ul quality wines under the Pla i Llevant DO.

The estate’s 19ha now produce some

70,000 bottles in two ranges: Can Majoral and ButiBalaus­í (young wines). They maintain the tradition of a full-moon harvest, with 400-500 mostly local volunteers working until midnight, finishing with a meal in the vineyard. Tastings for up to 25 people are offered by appointmen­t.

Call Francesc Grimalt a weirdo if you will, he doesn’t mind at all. In fact, the winemaker at 4 Kilos Vinícola (www.4kilos.com) prides himself on going his own way. One of the founders of Anima Negra in the southeast of the island (see p101), with nearly 30 years in the industry, Grimalt joined forces with Sergio Caballero in 2006 to embark on an organic approach to winemaking, creating miniecosys­tems with indigenous grapes and plants working in harmony. Their two signature brands – 4 Kilos and 12 Volts, both under the Vi de la Terra Mallorca designatio­n – produce light, aromatic, terroir-driven wines that have been making a name for themselves both locally and abroad. For an informal straight-from-the-barrel winery experience in a converted sheep barn at their bodega, just outside Felanitx, book a tasting via the email address on the 4 Kilos website.

The first thing to catch your eye as you enter the village of Biniali, just south of Binissalem in the heart of Mallorca, is the striking modern structure that houses the Binigrau winery (www.binigrau.es). In 2005,

‘Head north to Inca, continue on to the impossibly pretty town of Selva for lunch’

 ??  ?? Below: Vinyes Mortitx vineyard (see p99) against a backdrop of the Tramuntana mountains
Below: Vinyes Mortitx vineyard (see p99) against a backdrop of the Tramuntana mountains
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 ??  ?? Mireia Oliver of Can Majoral
Mireia Oliver of Can Majoral
 ??  ?? Shawn Hennessey is a food and wine writer and Sherry educator based in Spain
Shawn Hennessey is a food and wine writer and Sherry educator based in Spain

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