Rafael Cambra

VALENCIA

Rafael Cambra’s family business is a leading vine nursery, supplying many of the top names in Spain. While his background was in vines and the vineyard, his inclination was towards winemaking, and he travelled to France to study. However, he remained committed to his roots in Valencia. His home is Fontanars dels Alforins, a town of some 800 inhabitants an hour inland from Alicante. It’s an attractive Mediterranean landscape of mixed farming in the Serra de l’Ombria at 750m, with cereals, almonds, sunflowers and olives, and a long tradition of vine-growing.

Cambra set up his own project in 2001 with a vineyard of Monastrell, about 50 years old. He went on to plant Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, drawing on his French experience. More recently, he has been working with local varieties: Arcos, Bonicaire, Forcallà and Rojal. These local varieties are not simple novelties – his Forcallà vines, for instance, are 55 years old. As a winemaker, he is particularly thoughtful and considered: experimenting, reining back on oak in his wines and introducing concrete eggs to the winery. His latest project is in Rioja, where his Mateo Cambra wine is made from higheraltitude Garnacha.

Rafael Cambra, La Forcallà de Antonia, Valencia 2018 93

£ 17.50 (2017) NY Wines of Cambridge, Vino Vero

Slowly but surely the Forcallà variety is being revived, and Rafael Cambra has an important role to play. It’s a discreet variety in his version: cherry-coloured, plum and cranberry crispness in the mouth. A bright, chewy wine, refreshing with citrus and wild herbs. Aged in used oak, it’s the fruit that speaks. It blossoms on the finish, supported by the alcohol. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14% ➢