Fil.loxera y Cia

VALENCIA

2021 marks the 10-year anniversary of the founding of Fil.loxera y Cia, run by Pilar Esteve, her husband José Ramón Doménech and Joan Llobell. They recognised in Fontanars dels Alforins an exceptional environment with old vineyards at risk of being grubbed up.

Their La Mujer Caballo series – a reference to the wonder-women riders of 19th-century circuses – contains local varieties. These include the slow-ripening Arcos, once well known in Fontanars, Ullet de Perdiu and Valencí, which was popular for its dual use as a table grape. They found that this last variety greatly benefits from long skin macerations, hence the La Mujer Caballo Taronja, the orange wine, which also contains a little Moscatel and other varieties.

Fil.loxera y Cia’s wine names are as creative as their winemaking: ‘Sentada sobre la bestia’ (‘seated on the beast’) is taken from chapter 17 of the apocalyptic book of Revelation in the Bible.

Says Paul Grimwood, company director of Spanish food and wine importer Ultracomida in Wales: ‘The wines are all incredibly well put together, complex and well balanced and not the usual strand of Spanish wines. It takes a little time to explain a wine that isn’t the easy sell of Sauvignon Blanc or Shiraz, plus the region isn’t well known to the British market. However, if you can convince a customer to try the wine, they are inevitably hooked.’

Fil. loxera y Cia, La Mujer Caballo Taronja,

Valencia 2019 92

£ 28.95 (2018) NY Wines of Cambridge, Ultracomida

Hard to pick just one from Fil.loxera. This is the lively Valencí-based orange wine blend. Aromas of orange marmalade and white flowers lead into a textured, spicy palate, which also has a hauntingly orange fruit character. Aged in oak, acacia and stainless steel. For a less overt orange character, try the ‘ Beberás de la copa de tu hermana’ (‘ You will drink from your sister’s cup’). Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12%