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originates in Marseilles, as we’re in Provence, we’re talking rosé. Bandol would be my appellatio­n of choice, being strongerfl­avoured and more savoury than many Côtes de Provence rosés. However, in Domaine Tempier’s cookbook, Lulu’s Provençal Table (£18.99, Grub Street Publishing), Richard Olney recalls serving a chilled young red Tempier with great success. You could also drink white from that part of the world, ideally the delicious AP Cassis or a Rolle.

White Rhône varieties such as Marsanne and Roussanne also work well, although maybe not the more headily aromatic Viognier, unless in a blend. I came across an organic Roussanne the other day (Calmel & Joseph’s Le Penchant: the 2019 is £16.95 at South Downs Cellars), which recommende­d bouillabai­sse on the back label! D

A) Knee++ Ron Bear+( Beronia opposite) see ( producer the Guess

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