WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH

I love drinking rosé in winter, when its pared-back flavours reflect the muffled quiet of frost and snow while its colour is a reminder of the heat of summer ahead. Garrus always fills this role to perfection, because it has enough personality and grip to stand up to winter foods – we had

Château d’Esclans, Garrus Rosé, Côtes de Provence 2018

(95/100pts, £100 at Clos19.com) with a black bean burger – and it never fails to deliver a mood-lifting zip of mouthwatering acidity and slate-stone minerality.