Domaine de Gouye

ST-JOSEPH

The village of St-Jean-de-Muzols has long been considered one of the best terroirs in St-Joseph. This is where Philippe Desbos tends his 4ha of vines. His father planted most of the vineyard in the 1950s and 1960s, positioning the rows to be worked by horse. Desbos’ obliging steed Ramses still pulls the plough today. He makes his wines ‘as close to the terroir as possible’, he says, ‘like how my father used to make’. He still uses the same press, in fact, which is now over 150 years old.

For the press to function properly, he has to use whole bunches, resulting in an eminently traditional style of wine. His red St-Joseph Vieilles Vignes is fragrant and as authentic as you could hope for. A small proportion spends two years in old barrels for his Vieilles Vignes 24 Mois en Fûts, resulting in a more complex, richer style. He also makes a little white wine. These are not the most refined or polished St-Josephs. And they’re all the better for it.

Domaine de Gouye, Vieilles Vignes, St-Joseph 2018 93

£ 16 (ib)-£ 34 Blast Vintners, The Solent Cellar

Finely fragranced, with intense violets, black cherry and pink peppercorns. Light-bodied, but no lack of intensity and a gently textural grip. No overt oak or stem character. It’s hard to imagine a more classic St-Joseph; a delight. You could argue that it isn’t the most complex or ageworthy wine, so it’s not the kind that typically scores highly. But it’s hugely drinkable. Highly recommended. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13.5% ➢