Decanter

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud

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VINSOBRES

The appellatio­n of Côtes du Rhône Villages St-Maurice is almost extinct. Aside from the local cave cooperativ­e, just two producers bottle any wine under this name; one of them is Domaine Chaume-Arnaud. Most of what

Chaume-Arnaud makes is Vinsobres, however – a more familiar name, but appellatio­ns like these still serve more as bushel than lighthouse. I can think of no other reason this estate isn’t better known, since its wines are so reliably good.

It is now in the hands of Thibaud Chaume, whose parents Philippe and Valérie converted the estate to biodynamic­s in 2003, achieving certificat­ion in 2009. Their St-Maurice is wild and mouthfilli­ng, their Vinsobres more refined and refreshing thanks to 20% Cinsault in the blend. Their Vinsobres La Cadène, containing more Mourvèdre, is deeper and more ageworthy. And their white wines are as good as their reds.

Domaine Chaume-Arnaud,

Vinsobres 2017 92

£ 18.95 (2015) Wadebridge Wines

Brambly black cherry, gently perfumed and with fresh aromatics. This is deep and fairly concentrat­ed, but not heavy. There’s a light tannic load on the mid-palate, but it has some gentle grip on the finish. Nicely balanced, it’s a very drinkable and measured Vinsobres, being a biodynamic blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Fermented and matured in concrete, with no oak maturation. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 14.5% ➢

 ??  ?? Thibaud Chaume Below: harvesting grapes at Domaine Chaume-Arnaud
Thibaud Chaume Below: harvesting grapes at Domaine Chaume-Arnaud

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