Domaine Laurent Habrard
CROZES-HERMITAGE
It’s inevitable that very large appellations have some quarters that are more favourable than others. So it is with Crozes-Hermitage. Most of the land consists of a succession of deep alluvial terraces, and these soils can produce concentrated, expressive Syrahs. But there’s a chunk of granite at its northerly apex – the historic heart of the appellation – that delivers wines of real finesse. This is where Laurent Habrard is located, in the village of Gervans. The eponymous winemaker farms the land organically, and is now incorporating biodynamic methods as well.
He has a little of both types of terroir, and in blending them together makes some of the best red and white Crozes-Hermitage, vivid and precise wines of great balance and drinkability. He occasionally selects particular barrels for longer élevage, naming them after members of his team. These are particularly worth looking out for – wines with personality in more ways than one.
Domaine Laurent Habrard, Valérie, Crozes- Hermitage 2016 94
POA Amathus Drinks
Fresh and curious nose of iodine, bottled ink, cherry stones and blackberries. Beautifully fine, close-knit warp of tannins, like fine Italian fabric. Perfectly balanced, beautifully drinkable, you could never tire of this. Emotionally interesting Crozes, so fine, so light and effortless, but such character. It would put some premier cru Burgundies to shame. Organic. Best in Show winner, DWWA 2018. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13%