Alentejo: 10 names to know
COOPERATIVA DE GRANJAAMARELEJA
Located in the hot, arid Granja-Amareleja sub-region, gutsy reds are the stock-in trade of this 1950s co- op. Increasingly valued for its drought resistance, local grape Moreto thrives here and the co- op makes an exceptionally perfumed, intense example from ungrafted, shy-bearing old vines on the sandy left bank of the Guadiana river. www. granjaamareleja.pt
DONA MARIA WINES
Júlio Bastos’ classy range betrays his roots. He is a descendant of Mouchão’s John Reynolds, hence the Alicante Bouschet grape’s star billing (see right).
As for his accomplished use of Bordeaux varieties (and French oak), the Estremozbased producer had a partnership (Quinta do Carmo) with Domaines
Barons de Rothschild. Elegant monovarietals and blends. www.donamaria.pt
FITA PRETA
Co-founded in 2004 by winemaker António Maçanita and David Booth, the late viticulturist after whom the flagship red is named. Recently refreshed with Baga, it reflects Maçanita’s openmindedness. Showcasing monovarietals and new techniques, the eclectic Signature range is never less than interesting; esoteric Chão dos Eremitas and Ancestral Branco labels revive ancient varieties. www.fitapreta.com
HERDADE DO ESPORAO
Launched by José Roquette in 1985, the family – now one of Alentejo’s biggest players – remains among its most progressive. All 448.5ha are certified organic, as is the Portalegre estate and, shortly, Herdade dos Perdigões. Quality and value are a hallmark, from Monte Velho, Portugal’s top-seller, to sophisticated Private Selection and artisanal talha wines.
HERDADE DO MOUCHAO
Acquired in 1874 by John Reynolds, whose descendants pioneered Alicante Bouschet and still make it traditionally, using century- old stone lagares, basket presses and 5,000-litre vats ( tonéis). Foot-trodden with stems and aged for three years in cask, mellow but ageworthy Mouchão includes a splash of Trincadeira. Single varietal/parcel Tonel No 3- 4 from top vintages is uberconcentrated. www.mouchao.pt
HERDADE DO ROCIM
Dynamic winemaking couple Catarina Vieira and Pedro Ribeiro represent the second wave of modernists, with a foot planted in tradition. Founded in 2000, the 70ha organically cultivated Vidigueira estate is home both to modern production facilities and a beautifully renovated traditional talha winery. Clay-made wines, Alicante Bouschet and Antão Vaz are particular strengths. www.rocim.pt
JOAO PORTUGAL RAMOS
Founded by the former consultant winemaker in 1989, Ramos delights equally in making high-volume, fruitdriven wines for supermarkets and his impressive terroir- driven single parcel range. It shows. Chasing ripeness
QUINTA CABECAS DO REGUENGO
Since acquiring this Portalegre estate in 2009, ballet dancer turned wine writer and vigneron João Afonso has unleashed his creativity, making wine with minimal intervention from centenarian field blend vines. Uncommon freshness underpins delicate, joyous ‘glou- glou’ (gluggable) Respiro red and luminous new Respiro Natural White 2019 (no added sulphur). www.cabecasdoreguengo.com
QUINTA DO MOURO
Having acquired this Estremoz estate in 1979, dentist Miguel Louro made his first wines in 1994. Inspired by Bordeaux, Rioja, Barolo and local classics, ageworthy red blends (especially Golden Label) and monovarietals favour character, structure and freshness over fruit. Now farming 27ha, incremental additions Erro (‘error’) and Zagaluz reveal a playful side. www.quintadomouro.com
SUSANA ESTEBAN
After 15 years making wine at the highest level, Galician-born Esteban established her boutique project in 2009. Sourcing exclusively from Portalegre, she has not looked back. Flagship old field blend Procura red and white have structure, complexity and finesse. For the moonshot Sidecar label, Esteban invites different high-profile collaborators to push boundaries. www. susanaesteban.com