SPAIN’S INDIGENOUS WHITES
A veritable A to Z of grape varieties awaits your discovery across Spain’s varied, often rugged and sometimes verdant terrains. Sarah Jane Evans MW loves their style, and says now’s the time to try
Quietly, almost stealthily, Spain is transforming itself into a destination for white wines. The country’s reputation may be solidly for reds, and specifically Tempranillo in its various forms. In terms of volume, though, Airén is still the most widely planted (see box). This is explained by the fact that it produces wines ideal for distillation. It’s relatively anonymous, though, and needs careful management by both viticulturist and winemaker. Elías López Montero at Bodegas Verum in Tomelloso, Castilla-La Mancha, in the heart of distillation country, is showing the way with his own-rooted, amphora-aged Airén.
In the northwest, Albariño has grabbed international attention, closely followed by Verdejo, both driven by energetic marketing campaigns from their dominant denominations: respectively Rías Baixas and Rueda. The advantage of these varieties is that they make approachable wines, typically as single varietals, sold young, some with lees ageing, most without oak influence. On their first appearance on the international scene, they gave a completely different vision of Spanish white wine.
By contrast, Viura (Macabeo) is a more complex character, more widely spread across the country’s different terroirs (including as an element of Cava) and often oak-aged. It’s much harder to nail Viura at a tasting than the straightforwardly fruity Verdejos.
Revival of interest
Once upon a time – and specifically before phylloxera, around the end of the 19th century – Spain’s vineyards were bright with white grapes, interplanted with reds in field blends. Almost a century later, researchers are recuperating some of these varieties, and discovering others. In Rioja, for instance, Juan Carlos Sancha has been part of a team, and he now has a selection in his bodega (including the historic Maturana Blanca). In Castilla y León, the results of 14 years of research are coming to fruition, though the half-dozen chosen varieties (two of which are white) don’t yet have confirmed names, and it will take another decade or so before the wines come on stream. In Catalonia, Torres has led the way in ampelographic detective work and continues to release varieties (including
Forcada in this tasting: see p90).
The pleasure of these diverse varieties is their regionality, and their connection to climate and terroir. Godello, from Valdeorras in Galicia, has become attractive for producers from outside the region looking for an elegant white with a character that’s more Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc – more recent adoptees include CVNE (at Pagos del Galir). Xarel.lo, formerly known only for its role as the backbone of Cava, is building a profile in Catalonia as a still wine. In the same region, Garnacha
Blanca has had a transformation. Not long ago it was just a poor relation of the equally unloved Garnacha Tinta, but now the DOs
‘The pleasure of these diverse varieties is their regionality, and their connection to climate and terroir’
of Terra Alta and Alella in particular are showing its appeal as a complex, textured white. An unexpected outsider is
Palomino Fino. The foundation of dry Sherries, particularly manzanilla, was disguised by the winemaking process. The recent explosion in producing unfortified Palominos, with little or no flor influence, is revealing the character of this variety when grown on dazzling limestone albariza soils. At the same time, the varieties of the Canary Islands have come into the global marketplace; their Listán Blanco is the same grape as Palomino.
Spain is a terrific hunting ground for white wines. From the
Albillo Mayor of Ribera del Duero and the Albillo Real of Cebreros to the Zalema of Condado de Huelva, there hasn’t been a better time to explore. ➢