Travel: Châteauneuf- du- Pape
‘Châteauneuf has been working hard on its visitor attractions, opening modern square Place Jean Moulin that’s home to a gallery, café, restaurant and bar’
Matt Walls soaks up the atmosphere in this southern Rhône heartland
Paying a visit to this prestigious southern Rhône appellation is a wine lover’s dream. It’s a bastion of tradition, with a wealth of outstanding wines and beautiful vistas over the French countryside. What’s more, the region’s producers, hoteliers and restaurateurs have been hard at work updating the village’s tourist attractions.
The ruined castle, eyes unblinking, stands over the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It acts as a beacon as you make your way towards it, weaving your way through miles of rolling, stony vineyards. Gnarled, knotted Grenache vines thrust their way through fields of rounded pebbles, offering blood-red grapes towards the blazing sun. You’re getting thirsty, and you know you’ll be drinking well soon.
When I first visited Châteauneuf, I was surprised by what I found. With its largerthan-life reputation, I expected some kind of wine-fuelled, pope-tastic theme park, but it’s still very much the working community it has
been for hundreds of years. In 1344, there were approximately 2,000 inhabitants; today there are barely 200 more.
There’s plenty of space to wander the shaded alleyways that snake between rows of sandstone houses as you make your way gradually uphill towards the château. It’s quiet at the top except for the song of the cigales. To the west flows the Rhône, to the east far in the distance there are mountains – the Dentelles de Montmirail, then Mont Ventoux. Vine cuttings burn in vineyards below, releasing curls of blue smoke.
Exploring the village
There are plenty of estates to visit in the village itself, but you’re better off avoiding most on the main drag. Instead take a walk to Domaine du Banneret (www.domaine-banneret. fr), a 4ha family estate run by Jean-Claude Vidal and his daughter Audrey. With all 13 of
‘The appellation is very much the same working community it has been for hundreds of
the appellation’s authorised grape varieties co-planted, no destemming, and ageing in large, old barrels, this is very much a traditional, almost old-fashioned style of Châteauneuf that ages for decades.
From here, the biodynamic Domaine de Beaurenard (www.beaurenard.fr) is just a fiveminute walk away. With 32ha dotted around the appellation, the team can explain all about the four main soil types, and they have
particular expertise in the more esoteric local varieties. They also have 25ha in Rasteau – if you’re interested, they can take you to their museum of old vineyard tools on the way.
Continue walking south down the Avenue St-Pierre de Luxembourg, and in a further five minutes, you’ll arrive at Domaine la Barroche (www.domainelabarroche.com). The young brother-and-sister team of Julien and Laetitia Barrot are making waves with their vibrant, contemporary take on Châteauneuf, and their new winery is atmospheric and impressive.
The village might be small, but there are plenty of other options, such as Domaine Roger Sabon, Domaine de Pegau, Mas St Louis… Most producers will welcome wine lovers, in fact, but even if they display opening times on their websites, always call ahead to arrange a time in advance as it will usually mean the winemaker taking time out of the vineyards to receive you.
Heading further out
Venture out by car and there are dozens more domaines at your fingertips. Just five minutes from the village is Château la Nerthe (www. chateaulanerthe.fr), historically one of the most important domaines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and one of the most picturesque. Its landscaped vineyards benefit from a number of water sources, making it one of the best producers of white Châteauneuf – it also helps its production of top-class Mourvèdre.
Another 10 minutes’ drive to the east and you get to Château de Beaucastel (www. beaucastel.com). This is an estate at the top of its game, whose reds and whites are consistently among the best wines in the appellation. Its wooden cellars are beautifully crafted, and it’s relatively well signposted – which is a great help in a landscape that can be tricky to navigate.
Main attractions
Since the village itself is only modest in size, if you’re here for more than a few days you may be better off staying in Avignon (www.avignontourisme.com). That said, Châteauneuf has been working hard on its visitor attractions of late, opening modern square Place Jean Moulin that’s home to a gallery, café, restaurant and bar.
La Mère Germaine (www.lameregermainechateauneufdupape.fr) has long been a focal
‘The dynamic Châteauneuf-du-Pape growers syndicat is opening two new sites this summer’
point, but this hotel and restaurant has had its ups and downs. The grande dame was taken over and refurbished in 2020 by Isabelle Strasser, and in a matter of months had received a Michelin star. She has hired
Antoine Pétrus, one of France’s most garlanded sommeliers, to manage the business and select the wines.
It has been closed during the pandemic so I’m yet to eat there myself, but Pétrus describes the cuisine as ‘a contemporary homage to the beautiful products of the Provence and the Mediterranean’. The cellar already houses 300 Châteauneufs from 50 producers; his aim is to compile a list encompassing 1,000 wines from all over the world.
This is just one new attraction we have to look forward to, as and when restrictions ease. Hostellerie Château des Fines Roches (www. chateaufinesroches.com) has also changed ownership, and it will soon be adding a vinotherapy spa to its improved hotel and restaurant. And the dynamic Châteauneuf-duPape growers syndicat is opening two new sites in the village this summer. The first is a much-needed bar à vin. The second they describe as a vinothèque, encompassing various wine-related events and entertainments.
Rather than lying dormant during the interminable lockdowns of 2020 and 2021, Châteauneuf-du-Pape has been busy behind the scenes. I look forward to seeing what emerges from the chrysalis this summer.