Crémant: my top 25 French sparkling classics, selected by Georgina Hindle

If you haven’t discovered the connoisseur’s fizz yet, here are 25 sparkling reasons to explore France’s wide range of deliciously on-trend, bottle-fermented crémant styles

While Champagne gets much of the sparkling wine glory, with its established image of prestige, and Prosecco the lion's share of attention at the more affordable end of the market, there is no French wine category more versatile and complex than its crémant sparkling wines.

This single designation comprises eight officially classified appellation regions within France, including Crémant de Alsace, de Bordeaux, de Bourgogne, de Loire and de Limoux, each with its own distinct style and unique blend of grapes best-suited to its region.

Indeed a glass of crémant could comprise 100% of varieties including Riesling, Chenin Blanc or Jacquère, a 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, or Champagne varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Unlike Prosecco, which undergoes fermentation in tank, these traditional-method French sparkling wines are made in the same labourintensive way as Champagne, with a secondary bottle fermentation and ageing in bottle on lees for a minimum of nine months or longer, to develop body and complexity.

More than 800 élaborateurs make about

110 million bottles annually, according to the federation representing crémant producers across France, FNPEC. While crémant production volumes are about one third of Champagne’s total, and it may lack the historical associations of Champagne, crémant is experiencing a surge of popularity and is increasingly the fizz of choice for wine lovers seeking the sweet spot between price and quality.

‘Since March 2020 and the first lockdown, we were interested to see that our sales of Prosecco dropped significantly, and we sold more crémant and Cava than ever before’, says Lindsay Poole, director of UK merchant Wine Poole. The same trend has been noticed again this year and Poole attributes it to the wines being less sweet than Prosecco. It’s for this reason she believes that the company has also seen a rise in the popularity of Italy’s Franciacorta sparkling wines.

TASTE EXPLORATION

Trevor Gulliver, CEO and co-founder of St John group, which recently added a house Crémant de Limoux cuvée to its wine shop offering (see p51), believes ‘people will pay for sense of place, tradition and quality’ and would argue that ‘terroir or place is not uppermost in people’s minds when it comes to regular Cava or Prosecco’.

Regarding the crémant market, Sylvie Lacube, marketing manager for Domaine J Laurens in

Languedoc, says: ‘At one point, Cava and Prosecco were so trendy that it was more difficult to sell a crémant. But after a while, people begin looking for something with more body and finesse, even if the wines are more expensive.’

And in terms of price points, crémants at the £10-£20 mark are the most popular at The Wine Society, although the UK merchant is seeing ‘encouraging growth over £20, too’, with the category overall ‘representing nearly half of the total non-Champagne sparkling sales’, according to sparkling wine buyer Sarah Knowles MW.

But where crémant’s range of styles might potentially lead to confusion for consumers, the category does also provide a perfect opportunity for exploration. As with all wines, broad generalisations are difficult, with the different regional terroirs, viticulture and vinification all

‘Most non-vintage crémant bottlings are refreshing, juicy and zesty, and make an excellent apéritif’

playing a part. However, if you’re interested in exploring sparkling wines that show yeasty, buttery patisserie flavours from ageing on the lees, look to crémants with a more neutral base, such as those made predominantly from Pinot Blanc (Alsace), Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (Bourgogne), Chardonnay and Savagnin (Jura), or Chardonnay and Jacquère (Savoie).

For fruitier styles, look to the Loire and Limoux for high-acid, crisp and appley Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay-based wines – you’ll also find red fruit flavours from Cabernet Franc in the former, and even tropical elements from the Mauzac grape in the latter. For aromatic and floral wines from Clairette, Aligoté and Muscat, look out for the crémants of Die in the Drôme.

Vintage crémant bottlings are usually richer and more complex, suited for longer ageing and better at pairing with food, while most crémant non-vintage bottlings are refreshing, juicy and zesty, and make an excellent apéritif.

Many crémants are best consumed within two or three years of purchase, although some bottles have the capacity to age beyond 10. Serve cold, between 5°C-8°C, with lighter wines at the cooler end and the more structured at the other.

The following pages show 25 of the best-scoring crémants out of a total of 120 tasted in June 2021. All tasting notes and scores are available via decanter.com/premium.▶

1 Domaine J Laurens, Les Graimenous Brut, Crémant de Limoux 2018 93

£14.67-£20 Banstead Vintners, Cellar Selected, Hedley Wright, Kwoff, Roberson, Theatre of Wine, Wine Poole, Wine & Greene, Wines of Interest

60% Chardonnay, 30% Chenin Blanc, 5% Mauzac Blanc. Complex nose, full of citrus fruits and wild flower honey. Immediately impactful but with a lightness of touch. Crisp green apples supported by lemon and lime juiciness, good acidity keeping it refreshing. Balanced, and a more serious style that would be excellent with food. Great value wine, on which the reputation of this estate was built, and a seriously delicious alternative to Champagne. The producer’s regular méthode traditionelle is also an excellent crowd-pleasing aperitif style. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 12%

2 Sainchargny, Emérite Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne 2016 93

£15.95 From Vineyards Direct

Acacia, honeysuckle, white flowers and honeyed citrus fruit on the nose, tarte au citron and buttery pastry notes, really inviting. Well-rounded and succulent palate, juicy lemons and limes, crisp green apples and ripe pears. Good vibrancy and density with drive, refined and harmonious – incredably moreish. An excellent time to drink this as a far superior alternative to cheap Champagne. Made by the highly rated Cave de Lugny cooperative in southern Burgundy. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 11.5%

3 Bailly-Lapierre, Réserve Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne NV 92

£15.95 From Vineyards Direct

Inviting, white floral and softly fruited nose. Delicate but well defined, with green apple, elderflower and peach touches on the palate. Light and elegant style perfect as an aperitif, to catch the nuance and delicacy of flavour – a thirst-quenching, delicious summer fizz. The easiest-drinking in the producer’s large and successful range of 12 crémants. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%

4 Bott-Geyl, Absolu Grande Cuvée Extra Brut, Crémant d’Alsace NV 92

£26.50-£27 Highbury Vintners, JN Wine

A really enjoyable organic fizz from an estate with a family winemaking history that dates back to 1795. Expressive nose of brioche, hazelnuts, citrus fruits and white flowers. Delicate bubbles on the palate, elegant and refined with freshness and intensity of flavour, and the focus isn’t so much on the fruit that underpins the wine, but the nuance of nuttiness, marzipan and buttery pastries. The wine is aged on its lees for 40 months before being disgorged.

Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12.5%

5 Domaine Ansen, Struch Blanc de Noirs Brut, Crémant d’Alsace 2016 92

N/A UK ansen.fr

Lemon and lime on the nose, aromas of freshly baked apple tart. This organic 100% Pinot Noir has an excellent structure and feels well balanced in the mouth, more serious and rich than many with a lovely weight on the tongue, and flavours of caramelised peaches, lemon rind and apple flesh. Drink on its own to show off the nuance of aromatic intensity, or with white meats and cheese. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12.5%

6 Domaine Camille & Laurent Schaller, Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne NV 92

£22 Roberson

55% Pinot Noir, 33% Aligoté, 12% Chardonnay. Smells concentrated and intense. From a family estate based in the heart of Chablis, this is enjoyable with honeyed, succulent lemon and lime flavours undercut by crisp green apple and some strawberry touches. There’s a nice weight in the mouth, and great balance means you can definitely enjoy it on its own, or equally it has the density to pair well with food. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%

7 Jaffelin, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne NV 92

£15.99-£16.95 Amps, Hennings, Quay Wines, Salut, The Flying Cork, The Oxford Wine Co

An evocative Chardonnay nose full of fruit and floral aromas with some pear, apple, lemon and peach. The palate is crisp but succulent with a juiciness that fills the mouth – it’s mouthwatering but completely balanced. Has a touch of lemon meringue about it: crunchy, zesty and refreshing. Totally delicious and excellent value from an estate with a winemaking history going back to 1816. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%

8 Jean Geiler, Prestige Brut, Crémant d’Alsace NV 92

£16.75 Earle Wines

Patisserie and citrus aromas, excellent quality, feels well balanced and harmonious with delicate bubbles and delicious, softly sweet lemon briochepastry flavours. A great choice to entertain guests for apero or with fish dishes, oysters

or shellfish. Very moreish and a great alternative to non-vintage Champagne. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 11.5%

9 Kuehn, Cuvée Prestige Brut, Crémant d’Alsace NV 92

£12.99 Virgin Wines

Fruit-salad, floral and tropical aromatics, floral tones. Has lovely weight in the mouth, present but not too overpowering or high acid. Really fresh and finessed, delicate but juicy. Extremely drinkable, a Pinot Blanc with a lightness of touch that will work well as an aperitif – a genuine steal at the price.

Drink 2021-2024 Alc 11.5%

10 Marsigny, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne NV

92

N/A UK bailly-lapierre.fr

Extremely expressive on the nose, a burst of flowers and orchard fruits. The texture is clean and precise, very crisp and dry with well-balanced acidity, overall a sense of elegance and harmony. Effortless, easy to drink, from Pinot Noir which gives structure and about 10% Gamay bringing the fullness and elegance. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%

11 Prince Alexandre, Brut, Crémant de Loire NV 92

£12.99 Waitrose

A blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc, this has a lovely, light, appley fresh nose which leads into a palate with fine and delicate bubbles and intense flavours of lemon, lime, green apple and juicy peach. Plenty of appeal, some mineral notes at the end – an excellent supermarket pick. Ideal as an aperitif or with shellfish or soft cheeses. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12.5%

12 St John, Brut, Crémant de Limoux 2018 92

£20 St John Wines

A quality own-label fizz from the team behind the St John restaurant group in London. Apples and pears on the nose, good immediate weight in the mouth, lively bubbles and a delicious crunchy lemon and green apple tang. It’s still light and delicate but with a good depth on the mid-palate and length from two years' ageing on the lees. With or without food – a great summer sparkler with a crisp finish leaving you wanting more. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12%

13 Trénel, Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne NV 92

£27.99 Simply Wines Direct

A lively nose with elements of lemon, acacia, green apple and nutty notes. The palate is alive with tiny bubbles and a creamy mouse. Bright lemon comes through clearly, with crisp green apple washing over the palate leaving a dry, clean sensation. Bright and refreshing – it has the right level of zip for an aperitif, yet feels round and complete with fruit, intensity and drive. Serve with hard cheese or white meat dishes. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12%

14 Veuve Ambal, Cuvée Tradition Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne NV

92 £14.95-£17.99 Exel, GP Brands, Wine Barrel Hove From a family-run estate dating back to 1898, this has a rounded and inviting nose and a really delicious palate with some pear drop sweetness offset by crisp green apple and lemon all harmoniously integrating. Delicate bubbles give an enjoyable sensation. Easy, juicy, succulent, mouthwatering, softly sweet with a lift at the end. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%

15 Domaine Jean Sipp, Brut, Crémant d’Alsace NV 91

£17.95Jeroboams

Fresh lime juice, grapefruit and green apple skin on the nose, fresh and inviting. Fruity and alive but so balanced and harmonious, giving fine bubbles, juicy flavours and crunch. Well rounded, with some chalky minerality coming through that adds an extra dimension. Easy-drinking and very enjoyable. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12.5%

16 Dopff au Moulin, Cuvée Julien Brut, Crémant d’Alsace NV 91

£13.95-£19.99 Exel, Hallgarten Wines, Strictly Wine, The Wine Society

The flagship bottle from this Crémant d’Alsace pioneer. An equal blend of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois has lemon, brioche and almond notes on the nose, the palate lively with a crisp apple bite making a nice impact. Some creamy flavours come in on the mid-palate, giving another level of complexity and interest. Lots to like, great value. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12%

17 Famille Guilhem, Eclat de Brut, Crémant de Limoux NV

91 £15.99 The Solent Cellar

A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 30% Chenin, 15% Pinot Noir and 5% Mauzac, this has a lovely fresh and fragrant nose – softly floral with white flower aromas as well as lime and lemon peel. It has immediate appeal: fine bubbles instantly effervesce on the tongue and it has a good balance and ▶