Panel tasting: Cru Beaujolais 2019

Our judges were delighted with the quality and good-value drinking they found here, with Fleurie, Chiroubles and Côte de Brouilly praised in particular. Perfect for those summer picnics – just buy, chill and enjoy

187 wines tasted. Our judges relished a chance to taste so many fine Gamays together, finding four Outstanding wines and 60 Highly recommended

This tasting confirmed that wines from the 10 designated Cru Beaujolais appellations are well worth seeking out for their quality, value and interest. Of the 187 wines our judges tasted, the four wines rated Outstanding included two from Morgon and one each from Brouilly and Fleurie, while there were 60 others that scored 90 or above (see ‘The scores’, below).

Both 2018 and 2019 are fine vintages for Beaujolais, although there are some significant differences between the two. Vintage 2018 was notable for the abundant volume of highquality grapes, which manifested itself with weighty, ripe fruit and, for the best wines, the ability to age. There was more variability in 2019, with wines displaying a more elegant, lifted and delicate style. Frost and hail were issues in many areas, with overall volumes down by 25% compared to the five-year average; 2019 wines have plenty of freshness and ‘cut’ – a trait revered by Beaujolais fans.

Dominique Vrigneau observed that ‘overall the quality of the vintage was high’ and that ‘Cru Beaujolais are very consistent and reliable’. On the style of 2019, Vrigneau felt

‘the best wines were very well balanced and showed a good level of vibrancy and energy’.

Rosemary George MW agreed that overall quality was good, but noted the ripeness and alcohol in some examples. George stressed the importance of serving Cru Beaujolais at the right temperature: ‘Lightly chilled, the wines tasted so much more refreshing – what Beaujolais should be,’ she said.

Oak usage provoked comments from all the panel members. George was ‘not keen on obvious oak’ in the wines, whereas Vrigneau felt ‘many of the Crus tasted had some wood treatment – in most cases it was judicious and a good support to the wines’. I felt that oak maturation, where used sympathetically, added additional structure and extra layers of complexity to the palate. The panel agreed that it was important for Cru Beaujolais to focus on its own, individual style rather than trying to mirror Bourgogne Pinot Noir wines, for example.

Among the various Crus, Fleurie proved popular with all three judges, averaging above 89 points with half of the wines in the Highly Recommended or Outstanding categories. Côte de Brouilly and Chiroubles also scored well, with George noting: ‘Chiroubles was a bit of a discovery for me’. The extra altitude of this Cru (at about 410m, as opposed to 260m-340m for the nine others) appears to have added even more freshness and appeal to its wines.

There was some debate about how much one can distinguish the individual characters of the various regions, with George asking: ‘Can you differentiate between the Crus, or are there differences in growers’ styles?’ Certain producers fared well across the board, and size was not a differentiating factor. All 13 bottles supplied by Beaujolais giant Georges Duboeuf scored well across different Crus and quality tiers, while Korean-born, US-educated and French-trained newcomer Mee Godard was a hit with every wine: a young producer well worth following.

In summary, Cru Beaujolais wines from 2019 are good buys. Vrigneau was impressed by the overall quality: ‘There is a clear difference between the Crus, which are all serious wines, and between the more obvious and simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages. Clearly the AP system is working well here.’ These are wines to buy, lightly chill and enjoy.