Food & wine wisdom

Every month, Decanter contributing editor Fiona Beckett shares her wisdom on food and wine matching

FAIRWEATHER FRIENDS PEACHES & NECTARINES

Supermarkets sell most of their sweet wines in the run-up to Christmas, but high summer is arguably an even better time of year to enjoy a dessert wine. Peaches and nectarines top my list for their affinity with Sauternes and other late-harvest Sauvignon and Semillon blends, especially when made into a fruit tart, though it has become more fashionable to roast and grill them these days. You can also poach them in wine, or simply splash a cold sweet or sparkling wine such as Moscato d’Asti over slices of ripe white peach, like a deconstructed Bellini. Peaches also feature in savoury dishes, with ham or chicken, or burrata, in which case a lush dry white such as Greco di Tufo or Godello would work well.

TRICKY CUSTOMERS ANCHOVIES

Anchovy aficionados know to reach for a chilled glass of fino or manzanilla, a dry white vermouth or, best of all I think, a spritzy Basque Txakoli white. Of course there are two main kinds – cured anchovies which are salty, and boquerones which tend to be vinegary – but either will accentuate sweetness in wine, so dryness is the key. Crisp whites like Albariño/Alvarinho and Assyrtiko will do the job too. Anchovies’ disruptive influence will be mitigated if you add them to a dish as in lamb with anchovies (pair the lamb, not the anchovy), salad niçoise (Provençal rosé) or a caesar salad dressing (unoaked Chardonnay). And of course pizza, with which I’d happily drink a cheerful red.

For more food and wine pairings check out Fiona’s website, matchingfoodandwine.com ▶