WHOLE-BUNCH: IN THE GLASS

Niepoort, Redoma Tinto, Cima Corgo, Douro, Portugal 2018 94

£31.67 Millésima

Barely there oak and delicate cedar, cinnamon and anise spices highlight the shift to whole-bunch ferments and ageing in old wood. On the palate, a seemingly weightless melange of black cherry and berry and fruits of the forest. Pronounced florals contrast with earth, crushed stone and graphite undertones. Nuanced, yet penetrating. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 12.5%

Domaine Montangeron, Fleurie, Beaujolais, France 2019 92

£11.50 The Wine Society

From the southern end of Fleurie, this is serious Beaujolais. Frédéric Montangeron is an old-school vigneron who works traditionally, and likes to get his hands dirty. The vineyards are south/southeast facing, giving the wine some richness without being at all jammy. It's made in a semicarbonic maceration style with whole bunch, and has a lovely floral perfume. Depth, texture and fleshy fruit, with lovely balance. Drink: 2021-2023 Alc 14%

Piedrasassi, PS, Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2018 92

£27 Roberson

A highly expressive, effusive nose, with tomato stalk, white pepper and oregano, clearly whole-bunch fermented. Combined with sandalwood notes, the nose might be too herbal for some tastes, but it certainly has its place. It is light in concentration but high in aromatics, with rose florality and lift. Very appealing Syrah from Sashi Moorman – easy to drink, a great-value alternative to Côte-Rôtie. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.5%