Provence rosé: Gabay’s top 30 for summer
1 Château d’Esclans, Garrus, Côtes de Provence 2019 94 £94.99-£148 Hedonism, Hennings, Jeroboams, Love Wine, North & South, Roberson, Saxtys, Slurp, The Oxford Wine Co,
The Wine Reserve, VIP Bottles, WoodWinters
Off white in colour, and initially more of a white wine with bruised peaches, white fruit and gently toasted sesame, herbs and oak. On the palate, the oak dominates, but with luscious red fruit, creamy white peaches and a little white pepper. The oak is well integrated, and the ripe fruit finishes with a pleasing touch of salinity. The ultimate classic and traditional oaked rosé made in a Burgundian style and originally created by late Bordeaux winemaker Patrick Léon.
Drink 2021-2030 Alcohol 14.5% 2 Clos Cibonne, Cuvée Prestige Caroline, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2019 94 £45 Pip of Manor Farm
Pale shell pink with gold hints. Oak dominant on the nose, opening out on the palate with an initial explosion of ripe strawberries, cherries, juicy peaches, a touch of oranges and discreet floral Tibouren notes. Complex layers develop with toasted nuts, buttered quince, creamy salty caramel oak and firm weighty structure. Long, fresh, saline acidity peeks out from behind the rich fruit. The finish is creamy, saline, gently floral, and just gets better and better. Prime example of Provence creativity and producer individuality. Drink 2021-2031 Alc 13.5%
3 Château Bellini, Coteaux Varois en Provence 2020 93
£21-£22.50 9 Vines, The Cellar Tasting House & Wine Merchant, The Wine Shed, Valhalla's Goat
Pale salmon pink. Subtle but powerful red berries and white stone fruit, not yet quite showing all of its power. With long, fresh pomelo acidity, this is a tightly structured, weighty wine rather than fruit-forward, the cooler climate and CabernetSyrah components giving greater depth. The well-integrated but somewhat hidden tannins make it a serious rosé with ageing potential. Owned by Tom Bove, former owner of Miraval.
Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% 4 Château Coussin, César à Sumeire, Côtes de Provence Ste-Victoire 2020 93 £29.99 Museum Wines
Very pale shell pink with juicy, crushed ripe peach and cherry aromas hinting at a pretty wine. On the palate it opens up with layer after layer of sour cherries, almonds, a hint ▶
of kirsch, a touch of toast and smoke, some chalky minerality all wrapped in smoky opulence. Vibrant sour cherry and saline minerality give a long, mouthwatering, edgy finish. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13%
5 Château Gasqui, Silice, Côtes de Provence 2019 93 £25 OWT Leeds
Pale red-copper. Perfumed, almost grapey, red fruit aromas. On the palate a beautiful explosion of ripe red fruit, creamy apple compote, a touch of orange peel, marmalade, crushed citrus and some pretty leafy acidity. Quirkily different, intensely fruity and fresh. A gorgeous wine from a biodynamic producer, who is not afraid of ripe fruit and who makes wines which age with ease. Drink 2021-2029 Alc 14%
6 Château la Gordonne, Le Cirque des Grives, Côtes de Provence 2019 93
N/A UK lagordonne.com
This pale pink rosé has delicate notes of nuts, buttered toast and a whisper of rum and raisin ice cream. Intensity and confidence to handle sweet ripe fruit, bruised ripe apples, buttery almost toffeebiscuity ripeness with great intensity, power and long fresh acidity giving beguiling length. Not enormous depth or complexity, but so beautifully delicious, it can be excused. Organic. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13.5%
7 Bernard Magrez, Le Clos des Grands Muraires, Côtes de Provence 2020 92
N/A UK bernard-magrez.com
Pale salmon. Red fruit on nose, with juicy cherries. Creamy red fruit on the palate, barely ripe raspberry, juicy red gooseberry, fresh peaches and perfumed, floral notes. Nice weight and outstanding structure, luscious yet discreet. Epitome of a rosé, rather than a white, with abundant red fruit. Elegant, delicious and incredibly drinkable. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14.5%
8 Château de l’Escarelle, Les Deux Anges, Coteaux Varois en Provence 2020 92 £15.78-£17 Alliance Wine, Iron & Rose, Vindinista, Waistcoat Wines
Pale pink. Although not massively expressive on the nose, this wine has powerfully intense fruit. Vibrant raspberries, cranberries and lingonberries behind barely ripe apricots and pears, with mouthwatering acidity and mineral core. A seriously delicious rosé, which combines fruity delicacy with extremely well-balanced, crisp and zingy acidity and structure. Organic. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13%
9 Château de Roquefort, Corail, Côtes de Provence 2020 92 £16-£16.95 (2019) AdVINture, Terra Wines
Slightly darker pink, although it’s paler than in previous years. Lots of juicy red berries on the nose, spilling over on the palate with incredibly opulent, rich, juicy fruit. Structured, with brambles, crisp redcurrants, slightly floral (tobacco flowers!) – a proud proclamation of a fruity rosé style wine with a mineral core, vibrant fresh acidity and a long, creamy finish. Organic. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12%
10 Château Maravenne, Don de Dieu, Côtes de Provence La Londe 2020 92 £25 The Solent Cellar
Pale pink. Floral and red berry aromas. On the palate, crisp red fruit, redcurrants and dried cranberries layered with intensely ripe cassis, peaches and a touch of orange, held beautifully together with creamy acidity of a chalky texture. Real La Londe character coming through here, with a dark mineral inner core and some saline notes. This wine keeps the Provence character with some serious, wellintegrated weight, complexity and lovely depth. Organic. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13%
11 Estandon, Légende, Côtes de Provence 2016 92 £23 Matthew Clark
Golden yellow. Supple, subtle, gentle oak on the nose. The palate starts with creamy richness and ripe, juicy redcurrants supported by long, fresh citrus acidity, crunchy green apples and delicate leafiness. The whole is balanced by nicely integrated oak with inner black fruit structure, texture and a grippy phenolic finish. Stylish, and the flagship wine of a major cooperative. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13%
12 Château Aspras, Tomares Ballus, Côtes de Provence 2020 91 £18.49 Bancroft
Pale pink. Mineral, floral and lavender aromas. The floral notes, so typical of Cinsault (50%), open out to vibrant redcurrant fruit, some bitter almonds and creamy white acidity. The fruit is ripe and weighty,
with lovely creaminess that just melts in the mouth. The serious structure is elegant and shows the delicacy typical of the vintage and the freshness from a cooler site. Organic. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.5% 13 Château Léoube, Secret de Léoube, Côtes de Provence 2020 91 £23.68-£32 Exel, Farthinghoe Fine Wine, Fine Wine Direct, Lockett Bros, Millésima, The Fine Wine Co
A classic, pale pink rosé with crisp, perfectly ripe white peach aromas. Lacy creaminess continues on the palate with unctuous ripe peach, hints of fresh orange, crunchy red apple, perfumed exotic fruit and zesty citrus acidity. This is a classy, structured and well put-together wine with vibrant, mouthwatering, saline length. Organic. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13.5% 14 Château Minuty, 281, Côtes de Provence 2020 91 £43.33-£62.80 Fine Wine Direct, Hedonism, Millésima, Roberson, Saxtys, Vinvm
Really lovely. Very pale watery pink. Red apple and blossom nose, the perfumed, floral notes spilling over onto the palate before abundant notes of fresh redcurrants, ripe cranberries, crisp red apples and a touch of sour cherry chime in. Lots of extraction but not a fruit bomb. Boundless freshness with a hint of maritime minerality, mouthwatering bite and length. Beautifully packaged with a bright blue neck and shoulder. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 12.5% 15 Château Roubine, Inspire, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2020 91 £49.99 The Grapevine
While many rosés suffer from over-reductive winemaking, giving fresh if somewhat monotonous wine, it takes a confident winemaker to play with the fruit. This rose-gold rosé is full of soft, honeyed peach, dried Hunza apricots, creamy butteriness. A delicious juxtaposition of sweet ripe fruit with saline minerality and a vibrant, crisp mineral finish. Atypical of many straight, crisp, fruity rosés, this is intriguing and delicious.
Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13% 16 Château Saint-Maur, Clos de Capelune, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2020 91 £34.25 Astrum Wine Cellars, 8 Wines, Sociovino
Pale pink gold. Crisp white fruit with slightly leafy freshness on the nose hints at an elegant, classic rosé. On the palate there is an explosion of ripe richness with juicy and perfumed peaches, violets and cherries. Vibrant acidity and saline length remind you that this comes from the hills overlooking St-Tropez. Not perfumed, but beautiful complexity of fruit and flowers, with a fine chalky acidity and long, fresh acidity. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13.5% 17 Château Tour de l’Evêque, Pétale de Rose, Côtes de Provence 2020 91 £18.50 Corney & Barrow, Hic
Very pale pink. Buttery red fruit aromas. Rich and silky with peach, ripe raspberry jam and cherry fruit, blue flowers, hints of bitter almond, sweet spice and white pepper. Long, vibrant, fresh minerality and clean, chalky acidity. Rich and intense, shyly opening up to some vanilla. Unctuous and full-bodied, fresh and crisp with a perfect balance of fruit. This is the original pale, fresh rosé since the late 1980s. Organic.
Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.3% ▶
18 Domaine des Mapliers, Abacus, Côtes de Provence 2020 91 £20.50 Armit
Pale shell pink. Closed aromas but opening up on the palate to reveal peaches, ripe red fruit, dark berries and cream, orange blossom and floral notes. Intense weight and structure with white pepper piquancy on the finish. Both pretty and serious, in keeping with Provence rosé character. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13% 19 Le Grand Cros, Aurélia, Côtes de Provence 2019 91 £29.95 Delibo Fine Wines
Golden pink. Honeyed toasty oak with bruised apple aromas. Oaky character continues to dominate on the palate, well integrated with floral red berries and orange fruit balancing the honeyed toast. Excellent structure, using Mourvèdre (40%) and Syrah (30%) to good effect, with juicy acidity cutting through. Well executed and elegant. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14% 20 Roseline Diffusion, Prestige, Côtes de Provence 2020 91 £15 Tesco
Shell pink. Creamy white fruit aromas. The white fruit continues on the palate with peach and silky, waxy flowers, before opening up to crushed red fruit with cinnamon sugar balanced by crunchy redcurrants, cranberries and gooseberries. Overall, the intensely ripe weight, balanced structure and long acidity create a harmonious rose which continues to open up in the glass. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%
21 Château d’Ollières, Classique, Coteaux Varois en Provence 2020 90 £12.50-£14.50 Corkage, Ellis Wharton, Exmoor Wines, Funk, Hannibal Brown, Hop Burns & Black, Joseph Barnes, Les Caves de Pyrene, Mayfly Wine Co, The Beckford Bottle Shop
Pale pink. Vibrant raspberry and grapefruit thiols on the nose. Lovely blend of raspberry and fraise de bois fruit (Grenache 50%) with delicate floral prettiness and leafy notes (Cinsault 40%) lifted by creamy acidity with chalky texture. Showing vintage delicacy and elegant style. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 12.5%
22 Château Pas du Cerf, Côtes de Provence La Londe 2020 90 £16.95 Cheers
Very pale shell pink. Creamy peachy fruit, with a hint of grapefruit thiol freshness on the nose. Intense peach and dried apricots, developing layers of intense red berry with grippy complexity. Typical La Londe saline minerality. Initially delicate fruit but it develops power if allowed to open up, illustrating a particularly successful use of Mourvèdre outside Bandol. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 12.5%
23 Domaine 2020 90 Houchart, Côtes de Provence £12.40-£12.95 Davy's, Frazier's
Darker pink. Crushed raspberry aromas. Opulent raspberry and cherry jam palate with fine acidity and a mineral lift on the finish. A real joy to drink in a summer garden or on a picnic with full-flavoured food. Not a complex wine, but incredibly juicy and bursting with fruit. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% 24 Domaines Ott, Clos Mireille, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé 2020 90 £27-£40 Widely available via independent merchants
A rosé that illustrates the beauty of the white fruit end of the spectrum. Crisp Comice pears, perfumed white peaches, cobnuts, creamy lees breadth, juicy exotic fruit, long chalky acidity. A fine, elegant wine with discreet, elegant power in the way that silk can be both delicate and strong. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14% 25 Famille Sumeire, Château Maupague, Côtes de Provence Ste-Victoire 2020 90 £25 Martinez Wines
Pale pink. Cherry fruit aromas. Creamy, unctuous body, fresh red berries, a hint of smokiness with citrus acidity and some fine mineral notes on the finish.
The fruit takes a back seat to the very structural lush creaminess, with the broad creamy acidity typical of the limestone soils, the red fruit opening up more in the glass. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13%
26 Les Vignerons du Roy René, Opale, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2020 90
N/A UK lesvigneronsduroyrene.com
Pale shell pink. Intense redcurrant aromas. The fruit continues on the palate with intense cranberries, raspberries, redcurrants and juicy, jammy fruits of the forest. Freshness of vibrant, zesty acidity, a whisper of leafy freshness and mineral core. Lovely weight, well integrated and elegant. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12.5% 27 Mas de Cadenet, Grande Garde, Côtes de Provence Ste-Victoire 2018 90 £28.65 ABS Wine Agencies
Salmon pink. Oak on the nose. Initially opens up to creamy oak fruit, nicely integrated with ripe peaches, apricots and sweet sugar almonds and cranberries leading to long, crunchy acidity. Deeper layers of gentle dark fruit and a whisper of cassis, a touch of liquorice and some well-disguised oak emerge with grippy, piquant phenolic notes on the finish. Potential for continued ageing. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 12.5% 28 Domaine Dalmeran, La Bastide, Les Baux de Provence 2020 89 £14 La Fromagerie
Pale pink. Delicate fruity nose. A surprisingly robust wine with strawberries, raspberries, blackcurrant wine gums and concentrated juiciness. The round, creamy body is balanced by well-integrated acidity and a bitter-almond twist on the finish. A confident character with lovely balance of weight and charm from vineyards within sight of the Rhône Valley. Organic. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% 29 Domaine de l’Ile, Porquerolles, Côtes de Provence 2020 89 £20.18 Fine & Rare, Goedhuis & Co
Salmon pink. Hints of red fruit on the nose opening out on the palate with opulent strawberries and cherries and a hint of jammy ripeness with creamy peachiness. Long, fresh cranberry acidity with a mineral edge. Juicy until the finish, full of life. From island vineyards cooled by moist maritime winds.
Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12.5% 30 Château Vignelaure, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2020 88 £13.50-£17.50 Highbury Vintners, JN Wine, The Wine Society Very pale pink. Aromas of fresh redcurrants, hints of minerality and delicately scented pêche de vigne. On the palate, creamy white peach, cloudberries and fresh citrus. Aromatic, rich and creamy with beautiful depth and a long, lip-smacking finish. A serious rosé with freshness typical of this cool-climate, higheraltitude estate. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13% D