Curtis selects: 15 top wines from the crus of the appellation
These are Curtis’ pick of wines he feels represent Pouilly-Fuissé at its best, regardless of whether or not they will gain premier cru status. Prices, stockists and alcohol levels are shown where available. 2020 vintage wines may not have completed maturation when tasted 1 Château-Fuissé, Le Clos Pouilly-Fuissé 2017 95
£55-£67.50 Christopher Keiller, The Solent Cellar This monopole of 2.7ha is at the centre of the Fuissé appellation, exposed to the east. Vine age averages 60 years with the oldest dating to the 1920s. This site has thin soils at the top, and marl with limestone pebbles at mid-slope. Grapes are fermented in cask, 80% new. Luxurious aromas of apple, honey and spice with fresh cream and beeswax. The texture is dense but, despite the ripeness of the year, it is not heavy. Should age for decades. Drink 2023-2033 Alcohol 13.5%
Eric Forest, La Roche Pouilly-Fuissé 2014 95
From a site at 401m, too high on the rock to be premier cru. The altitude and limestone subsoil deliver a wine with complex aromas of citrus, bergamot and fresh coconut. The palate is crisp, but not lacking in body, with a savoury, salty note and lots of minerality on the finish. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13% 2 JA Ferret, Hors Classe PouillyFuissé 1er Cru Les Ménétrières 2020 95 £55 Hatch Mansfield
This site is highly esteemed by Mme Ferret, whose domaine holds 0.8ha here. Clay over limestone and marl. The wine is fermented and aged in cask (20% new) with a second winter in tank before release. The result is lemony and very fine, with floral notes, a well-integrated cask element and bright acidity on the palate. Not lacking in length, this is delicate yet firm. Drink 2023-2033
Leflaive, En Vigneraie Pouilly-Fuissé 2019 95
US$89.99 Michel Thibault Wine
This 0.23ha parcel at the base of the rock of Solutré is exposed fully to the south with chalky clay soils. Biodynamically grown grapes are lightly crushed and fermented in cask (15% new) before ageing for 18 months in total. Aromas of green apple and camomile with a touch of honey; superbly balanced, crisp and clean with richness but no heaviness. The lingering finish and substance hint it will improve for decades in the bottle. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13.5% 3 Château des Quarts, Clos des Quarts Pouilly-Fuissé 2018 94 £33.33 (ib)-£39.17 Bery Bros Exchange, Millésima The Clos des Quarts is a 2.63ha vineyard whose oldest vines were planted in 1917, in the village of Chaintré, where Olivier Merlin has farmed the vines since 2003. In 2012, he purchased the property with Dominique Lafon: the two make an impressive team. This was barrel-fermented (6% or 7% new casks) and aged 18 months to produce a stupendous wine that is creamy and rich yet very elegant. It’s powerful, but with plenty of freshness and delicacy here as well as loads of extract and tremendous potential for ageing. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13%
4 Château des Rontets, Les Birbettes Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 94
Superb wine from vines 60-110 years old in the windswept clos of Les Rontets at 350m at the top of the village of Fuissé. Organic methods and sensitive fermentation in large oak uprights deliver a wine of great complexity and depth. Aromas range from pear, elderflower and coconut milk. Spice and a mineral note on the palate, where the texture is silky yet substantial enough for decades of cellaring. Drink 2023-2033 JA Ferret, Hors Classe Tournant de Pouilly, Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Reisses 2020 94 £55 Hatch Mansfield
Tournant de Pouilly is the domaine’s traditional name for this parcel. The limestone-rich site is located in the ▶
premier cru Les Reisses. The 1ha holding averages 60 years of age, and produces wine of density and concentration, yet the trademark finesse is still in evidence in the lovely aromas of camomile, citrus peel and spice. The substance is apparent on the powerful, lingering finish. Drink 2023-2033 Olivier Merlin, Sur La Roche Pouilly-Fuissé 2018 94 £32.08 Millésima
A highlight in Merlin’s line-up, this comes from clay and limestone soils at 370m facing southeast. The wine ferments in cask and ages over two winters to produce a result that manages to be at once very rich, with a creamy texture and plenty of body, but also incredibly fresh and lively. The aromatic palate shows everything from lemon peel to ripe apple, although it does not veer into tropical territory, and there are plenty of mineral/saline accents. Marvellous length, great potential for ageing. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13.5% Bret Brothers, Aux Vignerais Pouilly-Fuissé 2019 93 £33 Berry Bros Exchange
Produced from a half-hectare holding on this steeply sloping premier cru located on the south side of the rock of Solutré. The organically farmed grapes are fermented and aged in used casks to produce this lush wine with delightfully hedonistic aromas of acacia and quince, buttressed by fresh lemon peel aromas. The texture is silky and very fine, and although there is ripeness and heft here, the wine has a surpassing elegance. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13%
Leflaive, La Chaneau Pouilly-Fuissé 2019 93
La Chaneau is the extension of the Vignerais slope as it turns to face east. It is located further up the slope and is thus not classified as premier cru. The holding of 0.27ha in iron-rich limestone and clay soils produces delightful wines. Gentle fermentation and ageing highlights lemon peel and pomelo fruit with delightful salty mineral notes. Crisp and fine on the palate, cask maturation (15% new) is completely integrated to produce a seamless, delicious wine. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13.5%
5 Robert-Denogent, Les Reisses Pouilly-Fuissé 2018 93
US$69 Kermit Lynch
A rich but elegant style from a half-hectare of vines farmed using biodynamic methods and averaging 60 years of age. Winemaking is very hands-off: after a light crushing, the must is fermented mostly in cask (some in stainless and in concrete). No stirring of the lees and little topping up, yet the wines remain precise and nuanced, with a great definition of lush ripe apple fruit, notes of spice and cream and a pleasant mineral undercurrent. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13%
Château-Fuissé, Les Combettes Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 92
This monopole of 1.8ha is situated between Les Rontets and premier cru Les Perrières, exposed to the east and north at 280m. The site has more limestone than clay, and the stony character comes out in the wine, with a bright, lemony aroma and notes of mint and liquorice. The texture is silky but still substantial. The wine is fermented in used casks and matured over two winters to deliver great finesse. Drink 2023-2033
6 Guerrin, Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Crays 2020 92
Produced from 45-year-old vines on a parcel of 0.4ha on south-facing slopes in Vergisson, grapes are fermented in cask (15% new). An enchantingly smoky nose with lemony fruit and bright minerality. On the palate there is rewarding breadth and weight but absolutely no heaviness. While this is drinking now, it should age for some time to come. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13% JA Ferret, Autour de la Roche Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 92 £50 Hatch Mansfield
The lieu-dit Les Terres du Perret site lies at high altitude in Vergisson and faces north, and is thus not classified as premier cru. Grapes are fermented in stainless steel and blended with grapes from the Verchères lieu-dit. Has a purity of fruit and vibrant acidity but enough substance to please the hedonist as well. Drink 2023-2033 Olivier Merlin, Les Chevrières Pouilly-Fuissé 2018 92 £31.67 Millésima
From a parcel of very old vines in Chaintré. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed with fermentation on native yeasts in cask (10% new). The result is ripe and round with aromas of golden apples, acacia flowers and a hint of cream. The texture is elegant with a solid heft balanced by bright acidity.
Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13% D