Jefford’s highlights from the Mas de Daumas Gassac range

FOR THE CELLAR Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge, Aniane, Languedoc 2019 92

£26.50 (ib)-£42.50 Averys, Berry Bros & Rudd, Christopher Piper, Farthinghoe Fine Wine, Les Caves de Pyrene, The Big Red Wine Co, Waud Wines

IGP St-Guilhem-le-Désert Cité d’Aniane.

The 2019 vintage was very dry and hot, with record-breaking late June temperatures – but the 78% Cabernet Sauvignon component performed well in these relatively elevated, breezy vineyards. Lots of scented fruit lift – black cherry rather than blackcurrant this year. Strikingly concentrated on the palate, and long, with just a touch more grip than usual. The 14% alcohol is a record, too – but you won’t notice it in this tightly sewn, acid-bright midweight. Give it a year or two if you can. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 14%

READY NOW Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge, Pays d’Hérault 2011 91

£43.33 (ib)-£81.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, Honest Grapes, Les Caves de Pyrene, Waud Wines, Wine Raks Mas de Daumas Gassac has a programme of historic releases, and the 2011 is the vintage on sale at present. This was a warm vintage, and the aromas of this dark red-black wine combine gentle currant fruits with menthol and the scents of warm pine forests and sunlit stone paths. The palate is deep, intense, lithe – and those Languedoc forest complexities fall like sunbeams through the palate, too. The tannins are light and sustained; the acidity is rounded and glowing. Perfect maturity just now. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5%

THE WHITE ALTERNATIVE Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc, Aniane, Languedoc 2019 93

£25 (ib)-£43 AG Wines, Alastair MacBrayne, Berry Bros & Rudd, Buon Vino, Christopher Piper, Fine Wine Direct, Joseph Barnes, Les Caves de Pyrene, Noble Green, The Beckford Bottle Shop, The Big Red Wine Co, The Good Wine Shop, The Salusbury Winestore IGP St-Guilhem-le -Désert Cité d’Aniane. Mas de Daumas Gassac white is a complex, unwooded blend of Viognier, Petit Manseng, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, plus smaller quantities of other varieties. Its emphasis lies on perfume (from extended skin maceration) and balanced freshness, with the richness of ripe Viognier and Chardonnay being offset by the zest of Petit Manseng and earlypicked Chenin Blanc. The low-yielding 2019 is light straw-gold in colour, with expressive nectarine, almond, pineapple, thyme flower and floral honey on the nose, and a bright, juicy yet structured and mouthfilling flavour. Look out for the cleansing, stony finish, too. Drink 2021-2031 Alc 14% D