A taste of Tuscany’s new-release reds

Wines are listed within their DOCG regions, then by score achieved, then alphabetically by producer. UK stockists are shown where available, as UK allocations for some wines may not yet be finalised – please contact your regular specialist merchants for c

Brunello di Montalcino 1 Fuligni 2016 99

£50 (ib)-£93.50 Christopher Keiller, Cru, Delivery Wine Co, Lea & Sandeman, Starling Wines, Vinum, Wineye

This historic property has released one of the most exquisite wines of 2016. Revealing its complexities gradually, it unfolds with a smoky flintiness, balsamic nuances and Mediterranean herbs. Seemingly endless in layers and depth, there is generosity but it never weighs the palate down. Powerful, finely powdered tannins, piercing acidity that radiates throughout. Hints of liquorice, violet, blood orange and iron emerge. Lengthy and effortlessly commanding.

Drink 2024-2042 Alcohol 14.5%

2 Conti Costanti 2016 98

£79.99 Liberty Wines

Andrea Costanti follows up his gorgeously seductive 2015 with a stunningly refined and gracious 2016. Savoury earthy notes are accompanied by nuanced dried florals, citrus peel and pure red berries. It reaches profound depths on the palate where compact, ripe and dusty tannins promise a long cellaring life. It’s so seamlessly put together that it’s almost a shame to try teasing it apart. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 14%

Il Marroneto, Madonna delle Grazie 2016 98 £275 (ib)-£443.33 Armit, Cru, Millésima, Petersham Cellar, Starling Wines, VinQuinn, Wineye

Il Marroneto’s various lots are all similarly located at high altitude, on coarse sand of marine origin and predominantly northfacing. Aromas of dark, heady purple flowers tangled up in allspice and smoky incense. Muscular, its firm tannins grip and don’t let go, although it’s never brawny or hard-edged. Currently a mouthful of stones, it reveals a balsamic core and tangy salted plum on the finish. Drink 2025-2042 Alc 14% Canalicchio di Sopra, La Casaccia 2016 97 £143-£153 (ib) Brunswick, Cru, Starling Wines, Wineye, WoodWinters

The second release of this single vineyard,

La Casaccia was planted in 1990. At 300m on average, it sits on predominantly clay soils and is bathed in sun from morning until evening. Not quite as plush as the 2015, this takes on the 2016 vintage’s more vertical path, opening slowly. Aromas are evocative of pine, cedar and sage. Full but not weighty, the palate brings in earthy nuances with wild berries. Acidity is cleansing, and silky tannins build to a powerful finish. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14.5%

3 Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova 2016 97 £65.83 (ib)-£113.33 Albany Vintners, Averys, Berry Bros Exchange, Cellar & Co, Christopher Piper, Fine & Rare, Grand Vin, L’Assemblage, Millésima

Casanova di Neri’s southern expression of Brunello, the vines planted in 1989 and now hitting their stride. The 2016 Tenuta Nuova is not as immediate as the ‘white label’ bottling, but unfolds decorously with earth, tar, leather, blackcurrants and cinnamon. The tannins are refined, with a clayey texture. Pristine and polished with masses of personality, the briny undertow cleanses the mouth brilliantly. Balsam and orange carry the finish. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14.5% Fuligni, Riserva 2015 97 £65 (ib)-£75.17 Appellations, Crump Richmond Shaw, Falcon Vintners, Mayfly Wine Co, Starling Wines, Vinum, Wineye

From the estate’s original Podere Cottimelli site, Fuligni’s Riserva embodies the spirit of its designation. Despite long ageing in large oak casks, it demands more time in bottle and should age gracefully for many years. Earthy chestnut and wet soil make way for hints of liquorice, lilac and allspice. Broad and expansive, it starts off with velvety tannins that build to a powdery mass, yet a lovely perfume lifts the palate along with saline, stony nuances and citrussy acidity to finish. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 15% 4 Le Chiuse 2016 97 £76.84 (ib) Cru

A suave yet dense package, headily scented with violet, lilac and rose, eventually giving way to exotic spice and tobacco. Chalky tannins are integrated but commanding, the palate packed with succulent blackberry and strawberry. Accents of leather suggest a savouriness that should amplify with time. The estate now releases its Riserva at 10 years of age – it’s a great indication of how Le Chiuse’s wines evolve. Organic. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 14.5% Le Ragnaie, Vigna Vecchia 2016 97 £66.67 (ib) Justerini & Brooks

From a 50-year-old site at 600m. In 2016, Riccardo Campinoti had to finish quickly in mid-October as he could see the weather turning. Savoury and mineral-led, this is thrilling and intense but needs time to open up. Despite its youthful austerity, there is significant depth and a citrussy zestiness. Tannins are effortlessly refined. Organic.

Drink 2035-2040 Alc 13.5% ▶

Padelletti 2016 97

£37.67-£41.67 (ib) Cru, Lea & Sandeman,

Starling Wines, Wineye

From 6ha of northeast-facing vineyards on clay soil rich in sandstone and limestone, just below the town of Montalcino. The estate offers elegant yet profound wines epitomised by the 2016 vintage. It opens gradually with scents of violet, lilac, truffle and liquorice. Midweight and fluid, with finessed but firm tannins and brisk acidity, this finishes long with savoury tea notes. A magnificent reminder that Brunello doesn’t need to be a powerhouse to be ageworthy. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 14%

Padelletti, Riserva 2015 97

POA Lea & Sandeman

A selection of the estate’s oldest vines averaging 35-40 years, the wine aged in a mix of French and Slavonian 5hl oak casks. Intriguingly fragrant but subtly so, this slowly reveals blood orange, dark plum, lavender and spice. Though richly fruited and generous, it shows breed and energy: a very textural Sangiovese, with layers of granular tannins and an equally thrilling lift. It’s almost drinkable now but has plenty more to come. Drink 2023-2038 Alc 14.5%

5 San Polino, Helichrysum 2016 97

£45.83 (ib)-£65.99 Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Handford, Lea & Sandeman, Reserve Wines,

The Holland Park Wine Co

From the southeastern area of Podernovi, where high altitudes counter the warmth, the vines pruned closely to give low yields. More powerfully structured than the estate

Brunello, this is mouthfilling and expansive. Baked asphalt and iron lend intrigue to youthfully exuberant plum and wild strawberry. The tannins seem to grab at every part of the mouth with a sandy, grainy texture, and the persistent finish features clove and allspice. Tons of energy. Organic. Drink 2024-2039 Alc 14.5%

Sesta di Sopra 2016 97

Ettore Spina and Enrica Bandirola replanted 2.8ha of vines and produced their first wine from the 1999 vintage. The 2016 leads with captivating aromas of dry earth, tea, violet and lavender, and the palate is equally compelling. Batonnage during ageing gives a rather sumptuous palate with perceptively talc-like dusty tannins sitting beneath the fruit. Iron and stone impart complexity to this seamless Brunello. Drink 2023-2038 Alc 15% Baricci, Colombaio Montosoli 2016 96 £42-£45.84 (ib) Cru, Starling Wines, Wineye

If approaching this anytime soon, give it plenty of time in a decanter. Compelling and complex aromas of stone, leather, cinnamon and iron take time to surface. The palate is weighted but not weighty, with crisp redcurrant and red cherry flavours. It has a dusty Tuscan dirt road feel – pebbles and all – with commanding chalky tannins and a salty, mineral finish.

Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14.5%

Canalicchio di Sopra, Riserva 2015 96 £91.67 (ib) Bordeaux Index, Fine & Rare, WoodWinters

In years it’s produced, Canalicchio di Sopra crafts its Riserva from a single vineyard of the estate’s oldest vines. In 2015, it hails from Vigna Vecchia Mercatale, which countered the vintage’s warmth with its breezy north-facing exposure. Opening slowly, it marries lifted liquorice, dried flowers and baking spice with forest undergrowth and leather. Chewy and vigorous, characterful, it keeps improving in the glass – but I would put it away for a few more years. Drink 2024-2038 Alc 15%

La Màgia, Riserva 2015 96

In the southeastern sector of Montalcino, La Màgia’s well-ventilated, sloping vineyards enjoy significant day-night temperature differences. This Riserva selection initially shows new oak nuances, though they never dominate. Perfumed sandalwood, violet and earth notes permeate. Initially round and smooth, with plump strawberry and plum fruit, grainy tannins, with perky acidity and stony minerality bringing tension. Shows the vintage to its best advantage. Organic. Drink 2023-2037 Alc 15% 6 Lisini, Riserva 2015 96 £55 (ib)-£85 Uncorked

Lisini’s Riserva carries the ripeness of the vintage effortlessly. It’s assembled from the vintage’s best grapes rather than from a predetermined parcel. Sun-drenched red cherry interweaves with scents of lavender, tarragon, a suggestion of warm sea air. The shapely, densely packed palate has juicy notes of pomegranate and blood orange, finishing with a highly appetising, decidedly mineral twang. Drink 2023-2037 Alc 14.5% Poggio di Sotto 2016 96 £112.50 (ib)-£199 Widely available

Poggio di Sotto estate’s Sangiovese is a massal selection of its own biotypes. Aromas drip with ripe red cherry, herbs and white pepper. The fruit is sumptuous, all juicy raspberry and nectarine. Beautifully weightless yet full, it’s racy and fluid with powdery tannins cleansing the palate, and a lingering finish of orange blossom and tea. Organic. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 13.5%

Sesti, Phenomena Riserva 2015 96 £65 (ib)-£81.68 Armit, Dunell's, Goedhuis & Co, Petersham Cellar, Uncorked

Sesti’s Riserva sees long ageing in Slovenian oak casks – Elisa Sesti explains that the soil of marine sediments gives soft tannins which wouldn’t work with small barrels.

The 2015 is particularly voluptuous, supple and silky building to a graceful tug-of-war between lightness and density. Exotic aromas of cinnamon, sarsaparilla and iron lead to a complex palate of roots, spices, tar and dusty red fruit. Illustrates the vintage with aplomb. Drink 2022-2037 Alc 14.5% Silvio Nardi, Manachiara 2016 96 £59.17 (ib)-£95.50 Champagnes & Châteaux, Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Starling Wines, Wineye Truly the loveliest Manachiara I have tried, it is crafted from Nardi’s vineyards near Castelnuovo dell’Abate in a warm yet breezy spot with cool nights and morning sun exposure. The nose is sun-soaked with plum, baked herbs and exotic florals, while the palate brings in flavours of nectarine, leather and a saline edge. Plush, fleshy and

full, building artfully to a powdery, tactile grip. Will give heaps of enjoyment for many years to come. Drink 2023-2038 Alc 15% 7 TOP VALUE Il Poggione 2016 95 £23.34 (ib)-£47 Widely available

Among Montalcino’s largest estates. The wine wears its warm, southwestern origins assuredly on its sleeve, exhibiting dark bramble fruit intertwined with baked thyme and rosemary, fragrant wet earth and leather. It is weighty but not weighed down, and sports the grip and zip of the vintage, the lingering finish full of tobacco and spice. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 14.5% 8 TOP VALUE Altesino 2016 94 £30 (ib)-£55.99 Widely available

Altesino’s six vineyard sites extend from the region’s far north down to the southeastern corner of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The Brunello 2016 has a sunny, fluid character, scented with cinnamon, lavender and sage blossom. Traces of orange and leather appear on the palate. Midweight with succulent fruit, this is almost approachable now but will offer delightful mid-term drinking. Drink 2022-2034 Alc 14.5% Chianti Classico 9 Rocca di Montegrossi, Vigneto San Marcellino Gran Selezione 2016 96 £46 Stannary Wine

San Marcellino is both youthfully fresh and maturely complex. It includes a healthy dose of the deeply coloured Pugnitello grape. Liquorice, tarragon and broom intertwine with exuberant plum and understated toasted nuances. Laden with black cherry and rich, velvety tannins, the palate is creamy, seductive, with underlying chalkiness and saline minerality lending energy. Organic. Drink 2023-2038 Alc 14.5%

10 Castello di Monsanto, Il Poggio Gran Selezione 2016 95

With vines 25-45 years old, Monsanto’s 6ha Il Poggio site is divided into three parcels that ripen up to one week apart, vinified separately and assessed after ageing to determine the final blend. Extroverted on the nose – peppery juniper, tarragon, iron – yet the 2016 is rigid, firm and linear, and it will need more time to unfold. For now, it hints evocatively at a stone-walled herb garden. Powerful and savoury with a sappy finish. Drink 2023-2037 Alc 14.5% 11 Fèlsina, Colonia Gran Selezione 2017 95 £104.99 Liberty Wines

Colonia exudes its luminous location and stony, sunbaked, wild surroundings. Warm and generous with sundried tomato and cherry, grilled sage, iron and vanilla, this is unabashedly powerful while maintaining extraordinary balance. It absorbs its new-barrique ageing effortlessly, allowing a savoury, umami character to shine through. The finish is clean and energetic. Organic. Drink 2022-2036 Alc 13.5% Fontodi, Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione 2017 95 £69.99 Hedonism, The Wine Reserve, Lockett Bros From a single vineyard in the heart of Panzano: a warm, southwest-facing site on galestro soil. Dense and concentrated, the 2017 articulates the vintage without slipping into overripeness. The nose offers macerated black cherry, liquorice, bay leaf and smoky oak. Hefty and structured, it is firmly framed, a core of racy acidity carrying blackcurrant, bitter chocolate and roasted coffee right through the finish. Organic. Drink 2023-2036 Alc 15% Le Cinciole, Aluigi Gran Selezione 2016 95 £30 Bat and Bottle

Upgraded from Riserva to Gran Selezione as of this 2016 vintage, Aluigi hails from a single, southeast-facing vineyard between 430m-450m, boasting a strong presence of limestone-rich clay over Panzano’s classic pietraforte bedrock. Arresting aromas of yellow broom, wild thyme and dried citrus. The palate is very mineral-driven and firm, though elegant in size and structure. Accents of leather and liquorice ring out on the finish. Organic. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14%

Monte Bernardi, Sa’etta Riserva 2017 95

A single-vineyard bottling from vines at least 50 years old on Panzano’s quartz-rich sandstone with hardened limestone. It plumbs Tuscany’s landscape unearthing baked clay, sundried fruit and fragrant garden herbs, reaching earthy tea depths and cherry-scented heights. Terracottatextured tannins wrap around the palate and a savoury, umami tang leaves you salivating. It displays exquisite Sangiovese purity and is so light on its feet, and just keeps getting better in the glass. Organic.

Drink 2023-2033 Alc 13.5% 12 TOP VALUE Castello di Ama, Ama 2019 93 £25-£32 Astrum Wine Cellars, Field & Fawcett,

Fine & Rare, Highbury Vintners, Millésima, Shelved Wine, Sociovino, The Wine Twit

A lovely, nuanced wine from the estate’s youngest vines. Refined in second-use barriques, the aromas are framed by understated oak, however intriguing scents of cherry, sage blossom, dried flowers and exotic herbs are uninhibited. A sumptuous palate is lifted by citrus zest, and finessed tannins coat the mouth with a caressing, clay-like texture. Drink 2022-2031 Alc 13.5% Tenuta di Carleone 2018 93 £24.95-£26 The Hive, Vin Cognito

Fermented using 10% whole bunches with a long maceration of two months, aged in a combination of stainless steel and old oak. Cherry, strawberry and rhubarb capture the lightness, brightness and depth of Radda, then come liquorice root and sweet moist earth. Though midweight, there is a sneaky tactile grip. It finishes with a green, spicy note. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14% TOP VALUE Istine 2018 92 £14.68 A&B Vintners

Angela Fronti’s estate blend is no slouch, and is among the region’s best value for money. Mostly Radda fruit with a little from Gaiole, the 2018 bursts with vitality and freshness. Gorgeous scents of violet and juniper meet crunchy raspberry and redcurrant. It’s lightweight but not flimsy, with fine, powdery tannins caressing the mid-palate. Simply a joy to drink. Organic.

Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14% D