My top 10 in Siena
1. CANTINA DEL BRUNELLO
As you might guess from the name of his shop, Federico Pieri specialises in Montalcino’s famous wine. While he also stocks an exceptional range of other labels including rarities from throughout Tuscany and beyond, he loves nothing more than making new discoveries at small, little-known wineries. Book for a tasting in the Etruscan cave beneath the store. cantinadelbrunello.com
2. COMPAGNIA DEI VINATTIERI
A list of about 1,500 different wines, an ancient cellar carved into the rock and a menu of beautifully presented dishes such as rabbit, guinea fowl and octopus make any meal here a memorable one. End with the house speciality chocolate cake and a Moscadello di Montalcino dessert wine. vinattieri.net
3. GROTTA DI SANTA CATERINA DA BAGOGA
A local favourite, run since 1973 by chef Bagoga (a nickname meaning ‘apricot’ in his native Montalcino) and son Francesco, and featuring brick arches and Palio paraphernalia recalling Bagoga’s brief career as a Palio rider. Dishes include peposo, a peppery Chianina beef stew that’s perfect with the restaurant’s own-produced Brunello di Montalcino. ristorantebagoga.it
4. IL BATTISTERO
This small wine shop opposite the cathedral’s 14th-century baptistery combines a historic palazzo setting with stylish contemporary decor and friendly service. Book for a tasting in the evocative medieval cellar and then stay over in one of the seven bedrooms. It also runs an all-day bistro on the same small piazza. battisterosiena.com
5. IL SALOTTO DEL VINO
A wine shop just off the Campo with an appealing interior incorporating contemporary style into a historic context. Owner Francesco’s passion for Pinot Nero has led to a section dedicated to Tuscan versions and he’s recently started producing his own five-grape spumante. He also runs the Osteria Bargello bar-eatery opposite. See Facebook
6. ALL’ORTO DE’ PECCI
Take a stroll for a taste of the countryside within the city. All the varieties involved in Siena’s historic vines project are grown here, and there are farm animals and wide grassy lawns. Picnics are not allowed, but the farmhouse restaurant, run by a social cooperative, specialises in pizza and home-produced veg. ortodepecci.it
7. OSTERIA IL GRATTACIELO
A highly atmospheric, informal eatery dating from 1840, with a tiny interior, friendly service and tables under the arches outside. Daily specials vary and there’s a deli-style counter with lots of veg, cheeses and local charcuterie: don’t miss the fennel seed-flavoured salami, Finocchiona. osteriailgrattacielo.it
8. OSTERIA IL VINAIO
Brothers Bobbe and Davide run their popular all-day eatery with enthusiasm. There’s a lively, market-place atmosphere and a traditional menu including local speciality pici pasta with Cinta Senese pork. Ingredients are from small-scale Tuscan producers, there’s a good choice of Chianti and the four wines by the carafe include Rosso di Montalcino and Bolgheri Superiore. osteriailvinaio.it
9. PANIFICIO IL MAGNIFICO
Lorenzo Rossi’s historic bakery is the place for an authentic taste of Siena’s seductively spicy sweet treats: chewy panforte, cavallucci biscuits with walnuts, aniseed, pepper and ginger, plus pan co’ santi fruit bread and snowflakesoft almond ricciarelli. Ask for a drop of vin santo, perfect with such delights. ilmagnifico.siena.it
10. SIENA TARTUFI
Join Alessandro Pellegrini and his dogs on a truffle-hunting trip out of town or visit his shop to buy fresh truffles and products made with them. The most prestigious white variety is found in autumn, but other types span most of the year. sienatartufi.com