Trendsetters, south and north The winemakers pushing boundaries across the Americas, profiled by Patricio Tapia and Jordan Mackay

‘I define myself as a guy who believes in wines with a sense of place, but, above all, believes in the diversity of wine’ --------------------------- Matías Riccitelli

All across the American continent winemakers are choosing to push boundaries and challenge the established ways by responding to the latest trends – and the threat of climate change. Patricio Tapia profiles five winemakers shaking things up in their respective South American countries; while, from page 27, Jordan Mackay introduces five modern-day pioneers of North American wine

Matías Riccitelli ARGENTINA

With a portfolio of 35 wines and a production of more than 400,000 bottles a year, this restless Mendoza winemaker has taken the Argentinian wine scene by storm. Matías Riccitelli’s abundant energy takes him from the vineyard of deep Patagonia to the impossible heights of La Carrera in the Uco Valley. An eye for diversity has seen him work with grape varieties considered eccentric for Argentina, such as Trousseau, alongside far more traditional reds like Malbec from the classic Vistalba area. The result is an explosive mix.

Matías is the son of Jorge Riccitelli, one of the most important winemakers of the modern era in Argentina, so it’s not surprising that Matías has been in contact with vines, vats and barrels since he was a child. His first official winery job was in 2000, as part of the oenological team at the Fabre Montmayou winery in Mendoza. He became chief winemaker and remained there until 2012, when he decided to fly solo and launched Matías Riccitelli Wines.

First it was just one wine, Riccitelli Malbec from old Vistalba vines. But things really took off with his Hey Malbec!, a thirst-quenching blend from vineyards across Mendoza that became a great success at a time when the local market was still occupied by ripe, oaky reds. The commercial success of Hey Malbec! gave Matías peace of mind, allowing him to experiment and take risks.

Today, it is risk that defines his portfolio, with wines that show the diversity of Argentina. These range from pét-nats and orange wines to highaltitude whites and traditional reds from classic areas. ‘I define myself as a guy who believes in wines with a sense of place but, above all, believes in the diversity of wine,’ he says.

Matías Riccitelli, Hey Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2019 91

£12.99-£15.95 Exel, Fintry Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Majestic, Vinvm, Wine Direct, Wine Poole

An excellent example of how juicy and fresh Malbec can be, this is unoaked, fermented with 20% whole-bunch fruit. It has a delicious fruity palate; and is ideal to serve by the glass with food, or to enjoy on its own by the pool. Drink 2021-2022 Alcohol 12% ▶