Panel tasting: Chilean Pinot Noir 55 wines tasted; varying results, but still some excellent wines to try

Consistency and quality were varied, yet judges still found some exceptional wines that showcase Pinot Noir’s potential in Chile. Their most important advice? It’s wise to research before you buy

The last time Chilean Pinot Noir was tackled by a Decanter panel, the results featured in the October 2019 magazine issue and the report sang of, ‘stellar results [with] plenty of diversity, character and excitement’. The write-up noted a steady progression in quality and resultant ratings over previous tastings in 2016 and 2013.

So does this ‘somewhat disappointing’ tasting (to cite the words of Alistair Cooper MW) reflect a faltering in the momentum of Chile’s great Pinot push? Certainly the raw numbers suggest a dip in form. In the 2019 tasting, 40% of wines scored 90 points or more, while 90% of wines were rated 86pts or more. The corresponding figures for this tasting were closer to 30% and 80%. As Dirceu Vianna Junior MW commented: ‘I went into this tasting with high expectations... but I wasn’t able to see much progress.’

As ever, the picture that emerges from a tasting like this is a nuanced one. One of the main bugbears (certainly for me) was a lack of consistency in style and quality. Too many wines lacked the freshness, charm, harmony and elegance that are the essential hallmarks of quality Pinot. Overworked, overripe, overextracted flavours cropped up all too often, as did disconcertingly deep, purplestained hues. Cooper testified to a ‘lack of varietal character’, while Vianna agreed there was a ‘lack of consistency’.

This may be more of a temporary glitch than a derailing of Chile’s Pinot train, however.

One of the reasons for the lack of consistency and quality is that both the 2019 and 2020 vintages were notably hot and not best suited to Pinot (the latter harvest was also disrupted by Covid-related restrictions). The 2018s tended to show their class by contrast. The best wines across all vintages, however, were those that prioritised perfume, grace and varietal expression.

There were positives, too. The geographical spread of the top-scoring wines was not lost on Vianna, who said the tasting ‘demonstrated that it is possible to make delicious Pinot anywhere in Chile, from Atacama to Malleco – there were some particularly exciting wines from the deep south.’ This point was echoed by Cooper: ‘The few wines we saw from the deep south were impressive – I’d like to see more.’ Both of the wines from the deep south that scored above 90pts are relative newcomers – San Pedro’s Tayu project with the indigenous Buchahueico community and Francisco Baettig’s solo project in Traiguén – and both are exciting propositions for the future.

For those looking to buy Chilean Pinot, this a tricky time. Growing pains are evident among wines and producers, resulting in a lack of consistency. This means that choosing with care is more important than ever. There are excellent wines, and some bargains to be had – but disappointments abound.

‘There were some exceptional wines, and I still believe Pinot is on an upward trajectory in Chile,’ commented Cooper, while noting the relatively small number of samples in this tasting compared to previous years and expressing reservations about the longevity of many wines. Vianna was equally ambivalent, pointing to judicious winemaking, but also ‘a general lack of ambition’.

Pinot-philes should not lose faith when it comes to Chile. Unquestionably exciting things are happening. But, on the basis of this tasting, a little more patience may be required.