Iglesias’ picks: setting the Cabernet standard
1 Concha y Toro, Don Melchor, Puente Alto, Maipo, Chile 2018 98
£69.17 (ib)-£120 Berry Bros & Rudd, Handford, Harrods, Hedonism, Penistone Wine Cellars, Villeneuve Wines, Wineye
A leader among New World Bordeaux-style Cabernet Sauvignons since 1988, this seduces with its precision and elegance. Made following a massal selection of pre-phylloxera vines from Puente Alto, a ‘grand cru’ of Maipo Valley, this outstanding Cabernet – with 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot – shows a redcurrant, graphite, thyme and cigar box fragrance. A silky, tense flow leads into an exciting, prolonged finish. Drink 2021-2030 Alcohol 14.5%
2 Lapostolle, La Parcelle 8 Vieilles Vignes Apalta, Colchagua, Chile 2015 96
£80 Bordeaux Index
A new wine by head winemaker Andrea León and president Charles de Bournet from a parcel of century-old vines planted in the poor soils of Apalta. This is a tribute to the French spirit of a winery that takes full advantage of the quality of Cabernet from this region. Complex aromas of blueberry, blackcurrant, sweet spices and tobacco are followed by good body, fine tannins and a liquorice aftertaste. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 15%
3 Montes, Alpha M, Apalta, Colchagua, Chile 2018 96
£60.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Christopher Keiller, Fine Wine Co, GP Brands, Hic, KWM, Nicholson’s Wines With the 1996 vintage of Montes Alpha M, Aurelio Montes jolted the high-end Chilean wine scene into life. 2018 was another superb year for this Cabernet Sauvignon, which is topped off with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot to achieve a sophisticated expression of blackberry, cherry, blackcurrant, graphite and oak, alongside good structure, fine tannins and a sweet finish of blackcurrant jam. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14.8%
4 Bodega Noemia, Due, Mainque, Patagonia, Argentina 2017 95
£60 (ib, 2013) Berry Bros Exchange
Well known for his work with old Malbec vines, Hans Vinding-Diers, a long-time Bordeaux lover, created Due in 2007. The celebrated Patagonian Cabernet Sauvignon only then reappeared in 2010, 2013 and 2017. Exquisitely refined, it undergoes 20 months of maturation in French oak barrels to create a nose that blends herbs and spices before delivering a flavourful, velvety texture and refined, grippy tannins. Organic. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13%
5 Salentein, Primus, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2016 95
N/A UK bodegasalentein.com
For this wine, José Galante and Jorge Cabeza selected only vines planted in stony, alluvial soils rich in calcium carbonate at Finca El Oasis, a vineyard in Los Arboles, Uco Valley (1,158m above sea level). These precisely identified vines deliver a beautifully judged natural balance in this fragrant, sophisticated Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a profound nose of dark fruit and spice notes that continue on the compact palate, along with refined tannins and a perfumed finish. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.5%
6 Viña Cobos, Volturno, Mendoza, Argentina 2018 95
£220 Alliance Wine
Now overseen by Andrés Vignoni, this Bordeaux blend – originally created by Paul Hobbs using grapes from Luján de Cuyo – has attained a more sophisticated quality following the addition of 9% Malbec and 3% Cabernet Franc from the Uco Valley. It is a serious red with a nose of red and black berries, liquorice, cassis, spices and mountain herbs, while in the mouth it flows luxuriously with balanced freshness, compact tannins and a long, juicy finish.
Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14.5%
7 Bemberg, La Linterna Finca Las Mercedes Cafayate, Salta, Argentina 2016 94
£60.89 (2013) Christopher Keiller
Northwest Argentina is home to some incredible Cabernet Sauvignons nurtured by the high altitude and sharp variations in temperature. Daniel Pi (pictured, p42) harvests the grapes for this spirited, classical Cabernet at 1,645m in Cafayate, fermenting them with native yeasts and ageing for 18 months in 300-litre barrels. The fragrant nose offers spice and herb notes over a bed of berry jam and black olive, while it is voluminous on the palate with impressive heft and juice. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.5% ▶
8 Calcu, Futa, Colchagua, Chile 2017 94
£79.99 Hispamerchants
Ricardo Rivadeneira, Rodrigo Romero and Eric Boissenot are the winemakers responsible for this unique Cabernet Sauvignon, which is blended with 14% Cabernet Franc. Both varieties are grown in Marchigüe and the location, 28km from the coast, makes for an expressive and refined wine that shows a fresh and fruity character. Dark cherry, plum, blackberry and blackcurrant come out on the complex nose alongside notes of damp earth and liquorice, while it is voluminous yet balanced on the palate. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 14%
9 Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina 2016 94
£43 (ib)-£71.40 Bon Coeur, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Corkr, Cru, Delivery Wine Co, Fine & Rare, Starling Wines, Wineye
Since 1997, this Bordeaux-inflected Argentinian assemblage has been one of Catena Zapata’s flagship wines: 61% Cabernet Sauvignon from Agrelo (Luján de Cuyo) mixed with Malbec and Cabernet Franc from the Uco Valley. It has a fresh character brought by the cool vintage in 2016, along with aromas of mountain herbs, plums, black cherry and blackcurrant. In the mouth the oak is well integrated, giving fine, juicy tannins and a potent, compelling finish. This promises to age extremely well.
Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13.5%
10 Dagaz, Kolwe, Colchagua, Chile 2019 94
‘Cabernet Sauvignon has been our speciality for the past 120 years, and now we’re finally able to show it’ --------------------------- Aurelio Montes (above)
£26.99 Condor Wines, Vinos Latinos
Just 34km separate this vineyard from the Pacific, a location that ensures unique conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon and that also benefits from local granite and quartz soils. Aged in old foudres, the wine delivers a distinctive expression of Chilean Cabernet, with fresh herbs, red and dark fruit, liquorice and interesting mineral notes. In the mouth, the flow is subtle, with a medium body and a personality defined by chalky tannins. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.1%
11 Errazuriz, Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve, Aconcagua, Chile 2017 94
£51.75-£64 Amathus Drinks, Exel, Hoults, Noble Green,
The Drink Shop, Vinvm, Wine Direct
This wine was first produced as a tribute to the founder of Errazuriz to mark the winery’s 150th anniversary (since 1983 it has been made with grapes from the Aconcagua Valley). A Bordeaux blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with dashes of Malbec, Carmenère, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it is aged for 22 months to deliver classically herbal freshness alongside ripe red fruit and fresh berries. Compact in the mouth with fine, elegant tannins and a lingering juicy finish. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14% ▶
12 Odfjell, Cauquenes, Maule, Chile 2015 94
£50 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent
Cauquenes isn’t well known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, although this biodynamic wine from Odfjell could easily change that. Created by the French winemaker Arnaud Hereau, this Cabernet is made from vines grown in deep clay soils resulting in a complex fruitiness that has matured well, showing notes of plum, blackberry, liquorice and spice. Medium-bodied on the palate, the slightly rustic tannins lend character. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 15%
13 San Pedro, Altaïr, Cachapoal, Chile 2018 94
£60 The Great Wine Co
Cachapoal Andes is a region of varied soils where Cabernet Sauvignon makes itself very much at home, resulting in great wines like this one, which is finished off with Cabernet Franc and Carmenère (2% each). The nose offers generous aromas of fresh herbs and bell peppers over a smoky backdrop, while it has good body and structure in the mouth, with firm, compact tannins that work well with the excellent juiciness and freshness. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.1%
14 Santa Rita, Casa Real Reserva Especial, Alto Jahuel, Maipo, Chile 2018 94
£95 Hedonism
This is a surprising new expression for one of the most celebrated wines of Chile. Made by Sebastián Labbé, the excellent 2018 vintage combines aromas and flavours of blackcurrant, liquorice, cherries, blackberries and redcurrants, with nuances of earth and minerals and superb freshness and elegance. The 18-month maturation lends a silky texture as a rewarding counterpoint. Offers excellent cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14%
15 Trapiche, Terroir Series Finca Laborde La Consulta, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2017 94
POA The Great Wine Co
The Uco Valley boasts several old Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards, including this one, which was planted in 1960 on an old, stony riverbed left by the Tunuyán river in La Consulta at 975m. Sergio Casé uses grapes from here to make this memorable red, which has an exquisite varietal character delivering aromas of redcurrant, blackcurrant and mineral notes. Firm and flavourful on the palate, it has a ▶
‘It’s time to forget what you thought you knew about Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon’
spine of lively acidity as well as fine, grippy tannins. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.5%
16 Undurraga, Altazor, Maipo, Chile 2016 94 £42.50-£49.89 Exel, Fintry Wines, Hallgarten Wines,
Vinvm
Rafael Urrejola prefers the vines of Upper Maipo for Undurraga’s flagship wine, which he describes as ‘something different from the rest’. From a Pirque vineyard at 792m, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes account for 92% of a blend that is completed by Carmenère from Colchagua and Carignan from Maule. The result is a unique wine with complex aromas of red fruit, minerals and fresh herbs. Free-flowing and potent in the mouth, it boasts lovely freshness. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14%
17 Zuccardi, Finca Los Membrillos, Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2018 94
POA Hatch Mansfield
In 2010, Sebastián Zuccardi bought a vineyard he was convinced would produce a Cabernet Sauvignon to rival some of his best Malbecs. Planted in the stony soils of an old riverbed, its vines deliver excellent fruit. Fermented in concrete, this wine is aged for 14 months in used barrels. The nose features herbs and balsamic notes initially before red and black berries come out in the glass. On the palate it flows well with a medium body, good tension and a velvety texture.
Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.4%
18 Concha y Toro, Gravas del Maipo Puente Alto, Maipo, Chile 2019 93
N/A UK conchaytoro.com
Using the Don Melchor vineyard’s youngest vines, Enrique Tirado and Isabel Mitarakis mix this Cabernet Sauvignon with dashes of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, resulting in a pure expression of Puente Alto, from vineyards at 640m. In the glass it has an alluring gleam with a nose of blackberry, blueberry, blackcurrant and a hint of olive, while in the mouth it is modern, potent and tense, with chewy tannins that keep it going at length. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.5%
19 Rutini, Apartado Gran, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina 2015 93
£63 Viñals Wine & Food
Since 1999, Mariano Di Paola has grouped together the wines he considers essential for the Rutini cellars in his Apartado (‘set aside’) line. The latest addition is this Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the best parcels in Gualtallary at up to 1,400m. An opulent red with good vigour and a complex expression, it delivers notes of red fruit, ripe berries and floral hints, along with graphite and cedar oak. In the mouth, it has appreciable tension and firm but juicy tannins.
Drink 2021-2026 Alc 14.3%
20 Viña El Principal, El Principal, Maipo Andes, Chile 2017 93
£67.92 (2014) Philip von Nell
Generally agreed to be among the top blends of Chile, El Principal is made from grapes harvested at 760m in Maipo Andes. It’s 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the remainder accounted for by Cabernet Franc and Syrah, which enhance the freshness and tension. The nose features lots of dense red and black fruit, including candied redcurrants and other berries, plus mineral notes and sweet spices. On the palate it is intense and free-flowing, with a vibrant core of dark fruit flavours and polished tannins. Drink 2021-2026
Alc 15%