Mighty fine wine: the Curtis pick of the Montrachets

Wines are ordered by point-score, then alphabetically by producer. Prices, stockists and alcohol levels are shown where available: 2020 vintage wines may not have completed maturation at the time they were tasted

1 Fontaine-Gagnard, Le Montrachet GC 2019 98

£432-£445 (ib) Decorum Vintners, Howard Ripley The Montrachet parcel cultivated by Céline Fontaine is located just down-slope from that of her uncle in the middle of the Chassagne side of the vineyard. In 2019, the picking began on 10 September, and the resulting wine showed a subtle note of almonds in their shell that she described as her personal ‘madeleine de Proust’. There is a perfect balance between extract and acidity here in 2019, with a sweet character to the fruit and plenty of structure. Elegant, sublime wine. Drink 2021-2040 Alcohol 13%

2 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chevalier-Montrachet GC 2020 98

N/A UK contact@pierreyvescolinmorey.fr

Pierre-Yves Colin rents 0.11ha in Chevalier, and he and his team do the work in the vineyards themselves. In 2020, he began to pick on 20 August to preserve freshness. The wine was fermented in large casks without batonnage to produce this marvellous Chevalier with ripe, forward aromas of apricot and quince. The wine has all the richness of the Bâtard but more structure and better acidity that carries it to an impressive finish. Ripe and accessible, but still ageworthy. Drink 2021-2040

Blain-Gagnard, Montrachet GC 2020

N/A UK domaine-blain-gagnard@wanadoo.fr

The 0.08ha parcel of Montrachet belonging to Blain-Gagnard is located (as with all its holdings) in Chassagne, where Jean-Marc

Blain describes the soil as Pernand marl with pink limestone pebbles. Here the site has produced a wine of expressively ripe, almost tropical fruit surrounded with lush floral notes. The texture is exquisitely silky with a velvety density that carries it to a generous finish. Despite the heat of the year there is no heaviness here, just a slightly hedonistic richness. Drink 2021-2040

3 Domaine Leflaive, BâtardMontrachet GC 2019 96

N/A UK leflaive.fr

Balance is always the hallmark of the Bâtard from Leflaive as the fresh minerality of the Puligny side of the vineyard plays against the luxurious and almost tropical notes of the south-facing Chassagne side. Here the wine is a bit restrained on the ▶