& Food wine wisdom Fiona Beckett

Decanter

contributing editor shares her food and wine pairing expertise FAIR WEATHER FRIEND MUSHROOMS

Unlucky readers who don’t like mushrooms! They really are the ultimate wine lover’s friend, especially if you have a cellar of mature Burgundy. Italian whites such as Soave and Gavi di Gavi may work with a mushroom risotto, but a mature white or even red Burgundy knocks spots off them, as do other cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots. At this time of year, wild mushrooms on toast with cream and butter are a divinely simple way of finishing off a bottle (blanc de blancs Champagne works, too). And if you don’t eat meat, a portobello mushroom grilled with garlic butter is one of the best matches for a serious, structured red, again with a bit of age. There’s a strong umami character to mushrooms that flatters a savoury rather than sweet-fruited wine.

TRICKY CUSTOMER KIMCHI

You might think that kimchi would be an absolute no-no for wine, and I’m not going to suggest for a moment you open your best Bordeaux, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a glass with it. To my amazement it even went with an English Bacchus I had open recently. Of course it will depend how hot the kimchi is, and what you’re eating it with. If you’re yet to discover it, the dish of spicy fermented vegetables – usually cabbage – is popular in Korean cuisine, and there is usually something like noodles or rice to offset the heat. Other possible matches include Sauvignon Blanc or Côtes de Gascogne white, Riesling from Australia, New Zealand or Washington, or even an off-dry sparkling rosé. matchingfoodandwine.com

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