A drink with... Vanya Cullen

Fifty years ago, Margaret River pioneers Kevin and Di Cullen planted Cullen vineyard in Wilyabrup. Daughter Vanya Cullen became chief winemaker in 1989 and has ensured that quality, integrity, sustainability still underpins everything they do. Cullen Wines was certified organic in 2003 and biodynamic in 2004, was Australia’s first winery to be certified carbon neutral in 2007, and has been carbon positive since 2019

‘In 1998, the vineyard was in decline. Dad [a doctor] had seen the effects of chemicals on farmers, so mum and I adopted organics, then biodynamics. We noticed a wonderful difference in vine health and grape quality. Our wines have become more individual – unique, purer expressions of site, with a thread of the land through them all.

‘Biodynamics has super-charged our cover crops and soil microbiology, sequestering more carbon dioxide. Still, it was a surprise when soil studies from 2014-2019 revealed we’d sequestered more carbon than the whole business emits!

‘Drawing on Australia’s indigenous culture, in our case the Wadandi peoples, our evolving six-season calendar acknowledges the strength and difference of our climate. It revolves around what plants and animals are doing. Slowly, we are developing an understanding about what happens at different times of year with respect to all aspects of our business.

‘With our Biodynamic Wine Room, we have complete integration. With five biodynamic kitchen gardens, our Biodynamic Tasting Plate and four-course set menu is 90% home-grown, so there is low waste. Caring for the earth and doing no harm in what we do has become a way of life for us.’