TREND WATCH:
ORGANIC BORDEAUX
A new report from Bordeaux’s regional wine council CIVB shows that wineries in the region are embracing organic farming in their vineyards in ever greater numbers. There was a 43% increase in the amount of Bordeaux vineyard land either certified organic or in conversion in 2020, up to 19,952ha, according to national body Agence Bio. CIVB also published data on a range of other sustainability initiatives and schemes being adopted by wineries. It said 75% of Bordeaux vineyard area had a ‘certified environmental approach’ in 2020, up from 55% in 2016. In addition, €400,000 of research funding is being spent annually to help cut pesticide use. Both organic and biodynamic methods have been growing in popularity in recent years, although not all producers believe in certification and there is debate about certain practices; while other producers have been pursuing some of the core principles for a long time.
Two to try CHATEAU PALMER, ALTER EGO DE PALMER, MARGAUX 2020 93
£50-£54 (ib) Widely available via independent merchants
Chocolate shavings and smoked coffee beans on the nose. It’s a vintage where you can’t get away from the tannins, but here they have sinew and juice, like the best translation of the tannins in the year. This has real purity of fruit, together with the gourmet touch that you want in Alter Ego. Biodynamic farming practised. Drink 2024-2038 Alcohol 13%
CHATEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE, LE PETIT HAUT LAFITTE, PESSAC-LEOGNAN 2016 93
£21.17 (ib)-£34.90 Christopher Keiller, Delivery Wine Co, Fine & Rare
The Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards are certified organic, while owners Daniel and Florence Cathiard follow a biodynamic philosophy they call ‘bio-precision’. A hugely enjoyable wine, intense, with chocolate shavings, liquorice and damson, and a brushed velvet texture. This is a vintage where the Cabernet Sauvignon did exceptionally well (55%, with 45% Merlot), and it suits the style of this wine: powerful but finessed. Still, no need to wait too long. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 14%