Fiordelli’s 40: new-release Piedmont reds
Wines are listed within their DOCG and age categories, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Stockists and prices are shown where available – some UK allocations may still not have been set, or indeed some wines may have already sold out, so for availability updates please consult your regular specialist merchants. See Decanter Premium for additional recommendations.
BAROLO 2017 1 GB Burlotto, Monvigliero, Verduno 98
£367.17-£415.83 (ib) Cambridge Wine Merchants, Cru, Wine Raks
If Monvigliero is recognised for its particular elegance, the interpretation at GB Burlotto adds depth and consistency to it. It has a crystalline purity on the nose, with peony, orange peel and red berries, embellished with cinnamon and rhubarb boiled sweets. Fleshy and earthy strawberry flavours are joined by lavish, almost silky tannins of great volume on the mid-palate, and lifted acidity that will keep it going strong for decades. Drink 2021-2040 Alcohol 14.5%
2 Conterno Fantino, Vigna Sorì Ginestra, Monforte d’Alba 97
£72.84 (ib)-£118 Cru, GP Brands, Great Wines Direct, Hedonism
This shines for its elegance and is full of intriguing leafy lightness, with fresh mint, pomegranate and rosehip. A concentration of citrus and darker fruits overlays fresh acidity and solid, muscular tannins which are typical of Ginestra – in the best vintages, this Sorì can be even more austere. Hailed as a warm vintage, the 2017 here expresses an extraordinary freshness leading to a citrus finish. Outstanding ageing potential.
Drink 2022-2040 Alc 14.5%
Giovanni Rosso, Vigna Rionda Ester Canale, Serralunga d’Alba 97
£345 (ib)/magnum Berry Bros & Rudd
The charm of Vigna Rionda is its ability to express the austere character of Serralunga alongside stunning finesse. Restrained aromas of rhubarb-flavoured boiled sweets and earthy strawberry, with a scent of cypress and rose petal. Concentrated but polished, with amazing depth; bracing acidity is followed by savoury strawberry, citrus, watermelon rind, rhubarb and liquorice. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14%
Guido Porro, Vigna Santa Caterina, Serralunga d’Alba 97
The 1ha Vigna Santa Caterina vineyard lies
behind the Guido Porro estate in Serralunga, at 400m on clay and limestone soil. Blood orange, olives, cinnamon, camphor... the vibrancy of this wine is stunning. On the palate it is firm and velvety, with a slightly dusty Nebbiolo texture, lifted acidity and a mineral-laden finish. A great wine focused on elegance, this is precise and long-lasting, with an impressive savouriness, even a touch salty.
Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Massolino, Parafada, Serralunga d’Alba 97
£98.99 Liberty Wines
Intense smoky woodland notes emerge first, then wild strawberry and darker, violet-soaked fruits. There’s serious elegance on the palate here, with nearperfect tannins (not only in the context of the vintage), a youthful character, and a dense mid-palate of lifted acidity and filigree depth. A great wine, but not so easy to drink now because of its youthful restraint. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 14.5% ▶
Azelia, Margheria, Serralunga d’Alba 96
£50.84-£54.17 (ib) Falcon Vintners, Goedhuis
& Co, Justerini & Brooks
Margheria is an MGA in Serralunga, where Azelia occupies the higher westerly aspect. This makes the wine more austere in comparison to examples from other producers. The scents are mostly focused on violets, with rhubarb and red berry notes. The palate is vibrant and mineral, with ripe, lavish tannins and bracing acidity. The structure and almost-tart fruit are finely tailored. Outstanding now but built for the long haul. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo 96
£275-£279 (ib) Cru, Falcon Vintners, Uncorked
In 2015, Maria-Teresa Mascarello uprooted the estate’s San Lorenzo vines, which no longer feature in this impressive blend. Subdued rose and tar notes are joined by a leafy lightness, then a crystalline definition of red berries in both aroma and flavour. Velvety tannins and assertive acidity hold the wine in tension and balance, powered by orange savouriness. It’s more delicate and less extracted than in 2016, but with similar ageing potential. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14%
Domenico Clerico, Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, Monforte d’Alba 96
Restrained, nuanced nose, hiding rich red and dark cherry, rosebud and violet aromas, with liquorice root in depth. The dense and vibrant palate is full of sucrosity, with cherry and tar alongside a violet tinge. The tannins are as much extracted as lavish, noble and ripe, while acidity carries the finish of cherry kernel. Astonishing, ageworthy wine: don’t touch it before 2022. Drink 2022-2040
Alc 14.5%
Gaja, Sperss, Serralunga d’Alba 96
POA Hatch Mansfield
From Serralunga, this interpretation of Barolo exhibits a dark profile of earthy tones and chocolate, with graceful, jam-like cherry, orange peel and violet. The structure is perfectly woven into its restrained plummy fruits and liquorice finish. It’s not showing much poise at present, but clearly has a long life ahead.
Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Giovanni Rocca, Mosconi, Monforte d’Alba 96
The sternness of Mosconi is tamed here with an astonishing balance. Rhubarb, rose, cinnamon and framboise on the nose. Full and velvety, the attack is surprisingly fleshy and vibrant – you don’t want to spit it out – then lifted with refreshing acidity and showing savoury, ripe fruits on the endless finish. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Giuseppe Rinaldi, Tre Tine, Barolo 96
POA Cru
The last vintage produced by Beppe Rinaldi, in 2017 Tre Tine seems to express more concentration than the estate’s Brunate, showing vibrant red berry and plum fruits alongside a citrus, almost herbal freshness. It’s not really poised at present, with assertive acidity and firm, muscular tannins that are chewy rather than hard, yet its fierce character is balanced by plenty of fruit concentration. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14%
Palladino, Parafada, Serralunga d’Alba 96
£42 Ultravino
One of the wines of the vintage. It has an intense nose of stunning depth, restrained and focused, with fresh dark fruits, tar, wild strawberry and liquorice. The intoxicating complexity is wrapped up in a velvety texture on the palate, the lifted acidity thrusting forward further wild strawberry notes. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 15%
Boasso, Gabutti, Serralunga d’Alba 95
Just 7ha are managed by Franco Boasso and his sons Ezio and Claudio, and in a challenging vintage such as 2017, the importance of selecting the grapes and handling the wine with handcrafted accuracy may have made the difference. Rosewater, blood orange and liquorice mark the nose, with grainy tannins underlining outstanding ripeness, fresh red fruits and cinnamon bark. A full, complex wine built to last. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 15%
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Cannubi, Barolo 95
£73.25 AG Wines, Field & Fawcett, Shelved Wine, Sociovino
Grapes for this come from Cannubi Boschis (2.2ha) and Cannubi (0.6ha). Fermented in stainless steel, it is then aged in Slavonian botti grandi for at least three years. Refreshing lemon leaf, mint and wild strawberry characterise the classic nose, which is followed by a youthful, grainy palate with well-packed tannins and zesty acidity. A fresh expression of the vintage, focused more on elegance than extraction.
Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Fratelli Alessandria, Gramolere, Monforte d’Alba 95
£51.67 (ib) Goedhuis & Co, Raeburn Fine Wines, Uncorked
Gramolere is known to be restrained and austere, but in this wine the nose is dominated by notes of rhubarb root, rosehip, tar and earthy clay minerality. Candied cherry and pomegranate juice flavours provide fruit concentration, while the tight-knit structure showcases chewy acidity and austere yet ripe tannins, followed by a graceful watermelon finish. A great wine. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 14.5%
Giacomo Fenocchio, Villero, Castiglione Falletto 95
£35 (ib) Armit, Petersham Cellar
The nose is a classic, with liquorice root, smoky woodland, wild strawberry and rhubarb minerality. The attack is velvety, full of fruit concentration, yet also stern although lacking any dryness or bitterness. A restrained, elegant Barolo built to age.
Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Marco Marengo, La Morra 95
£21.25 (ib) Justerini & Brooks
This exhibits leafy lightness with orange peel and cocoa powder. The attack is firm, muscular yet ripe. Dense on the mid-palate, it has bracing acidity combined with eminently savoury orange fruit. The finish is chiselled, with a good length of fruits and liquorice. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 15% ▶
£93.33 Millésima
This is focused on elegance with lifted, concentrated aromas and flavours of orange peel, strawberry jam, rose and a touch of smoke. This combination of great intensity and concentration is supported by firm, muscular tannins, and rarely in the 2017 vintage do we find this combination of fruit weight and strength of structure.
Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Réva, Cannubi, Barolo 95
£145 (2016) Friarwood
Low-temperature fermentation is employed here, and the definition of fruit is stunning, with notes of mint-infused watermelon and pomegranate juice. Full-bodied, crisp and velvety, it shows the supple character of Cannubi, its grace and complexity highlighted by medicinal herbs and rhubarb, before an almost vermouthlike finish. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
Vietti, Lazzarito, Serralunga d’Alba 95
Lazzarito is a stunning amphitheatre facing southwest on clay-limestone soil. Sweet, filigree notes of cinnamon, strawberry candy and violet unfold in the glass. The attack is polished, with ripe, crunchy tannins, and the austerity of Serralunga here becomes density and volume, which is kept lively by lifted acidity and finishes with liquorice root and cinnamon notes. Perfect balance with great elegance.
Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%
BAROLO RISERVA 2015 3 Massolino, Vigna Rionda Riserva, Serralunga d’Alba 98
£179.99 Liberty Wines
Massolino manages the largest part of Vigna Rionda. This 2015 displays a nose of restrained cherry fruit melded with rosehip, vibrant minerality and a balsamic touch. Brighter blood orange flavours dominate the palate, which is broad, full-bodied, velvety and naturally refreshing. This powerful Barolo finishes with a thick mass of tannins and is one to cellar for the long haul, if you can wait. Drink 2021-2045
Alc 14.5%
Ettore Germano, Lazzarito Riserva, Serralunga d’Alba 97
£85.50 Sociovino
Lazzarito is one of the oldest and bestknown crus in Serralunga, and this comes from a very old vineyard. It’s intensely scented with macerated violets, roses, blood orange and rhubarb root. The palate is fiercely fresh, with a red berry character and full body which carries a lot of weight. Ripe, velvety tannins and lifted acidity give a tense, elegant style, and it ends with fragrant fresh fruit. Long-term cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2045 Alc 14%
Figli Luigi Oddero, Vigna Rionda Riserva, Serralunga d’Alba 97
It’s not always easy to describe the intoxicating complexity and elegance of Vigna Rionda: the vibrancy of earthy strawberry which becomes richer cherry on the palate; the weaving, fresh rose and violet, or the spiciness among a touch of tar, liquorice stick and smoky woodland, with wax and balsamic tones. On the palate this vintage shines, showing firm, grainy tannins and lifted acidity over the supple fruit, and all with an incredibly elegant length. Outstanding. Drink 2021-2045 Alc 14.5%
Cavallotto, Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva, Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto 96
£82.50 (ib) Lay & Wheeler
From a well-known organic producer, this is as much austere as detailed, with rose, plum and prune aromas joined by smoky woodland and a depth of forest floor. Prunes appear on the palate, with an earthy minerality and muscular yet ripe, sweet tannins due to old vines. Refreshing acidity and balanced alcohol: this is ready for the long haul. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.8%
Oddero, Vigna Mondoca Riserva Bussia, Monforte d’Alba 96
£114.50 Field & Fawcett, Focus Wines, Sociovino This wine’s restrained nose is full of plum, dark fruits, wild herbs, liquorice and blood, which develop on the palate with earthy tones and lively acidity, as well as velvety, slightly oaky tannins. Concentrated and powerful, this is nevertheless graceful.
Drink 2022-2045 Alc 14.5%
BARBARESCO 2018 4 Bruno Rocca, Rabajà 96 Ceretto, Asili 96
£75-£106 Fine & Rare, Hedonism, Liberty Wines, Millésima
A vibrant, powerful wine, full of minerality. On the nose there is a stunning intensity of orange peel combined with fresh violets and wet slate, then whiffs of stone fruit and liquorice root. The attack is richer, highlighting the cherry fruit, while the broad and lavish tannins of rare elegance don’t mask the authentic character of Nebbiolo, woven with savoury citrus on the finish. Drink 2021-2038 Alc 14.5% £170 Bordeaux Index
Restrained and citrus-scented, notes wander from Earl Grey to bitter orange, then potpourri, dried cherry and civet emerging. Full-bodied, this displays mid-palate weight with dense, lavish tannins that are underlined by crisp acidity. Rather foursquare, this wine shows great ▶