Cognacs with a sense of place: eight to try

1 Camus Single Estate Borderies VSOP

£45.99-£52.75/70cl 23 Wine & Whiskey, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange, Tyndrum Whisky, Virgin Wines, Waitrose Cellar From the smallest Cognac cru comes this lovely example of its signature style, with plenty of restraint but charming perfumed fruit and a floral undertone, backed up by vanilla and spice. Alcohol 40%

2 Delamain Pléiade, Collection Révélation, Bonneuil

£190/70cl The Whisky Exchange This is a very different Bonneuil Cognac to the Domaines Hine example: long-aged, with scents of vine flowers, some almost confected fruit – sweet cherry to the fore – and alluring notes of nutmeg and cinnamon. Alc 45%

3 Domaines Hine Bonneuil 2010

£89.40-£89.95/70cl Hedonism, House of Malt, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange The fourth Hine Bonneuil release, this shows the development of the concept with a perfectly balanced, elegant and fruitforward expression of the excellent 2010 harvest, with light spice from the oak and a nip of menthol. Alc 42.1%

4 Frapin Château Fontpinot XO

£105-£135/70cl Berry Bros & Rudd, Fortnum & Mason, Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange Frapin always treads a fine line between elegance, complexity and structure – and this benchmark expression is the perfect example. Hedgerow florals, creamy vanilla and an edge of spice and tannin from the cask. Alc 41%

5 Guillon-Painturaud Hors d’Age

£140/70cl The Whisky Exchange This is a reliable, historic house (the Pineau is also superb) with formidable aged stocks and 18ha of prime Grande Champagne vineyards, put to good use here with a medium-weight, power-meets-finesse Cognac that’s seen about 30 summers. Alc 40%

6 Hennessy XO

£130-£165/70cl Widely available The original XO, this is a Cognac in a traditional style – rich and decadent, with powerful cask influence – and which epitomises the art of blending: combining a bewildering array of eaux-de-vie to make them sing. Alc 40%

7 Martell Cordon Bleu

£114.95-£150/70cl Fortnum & Mason, Gerry’s, Harvey Nichols, House of Malt, Master of Malt, The Drink Shop, The Whisky Exchange Of all of Martell’s Cognacs, Cordon Bleu brings the qualities of the Borderies cru to the fore, with its characteristic elegance overlaid onto seductive orchard fruits and sumptuous spiced vanilla. Alc 40%

8 Pierre Ferrand Sélection des Anges

£155-£175 Distillers Direct, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, Master of Malt, The Drink Shop, The Whisky Exchange From one of the most forward-thinking of Grande Champagne houses, decades in cask have left a velvet, seamless Cognac that melds dried flowers, plummy fruit, walnuts and dark honey. Alc 41.8% D