The wines to match
DRY LOIRE CHENIN BLANC
It would be fascinating to compare how this classic Chenin would match this dish both when young and with greater maturity. Either would work for sure – the rapier-like precision of the young wine will cut through the sweetness of the caramelised onions and the richness of the cream, but a mature Savennières would add a thrilling extra layer of complexity.
Try: Domaine FL, Chamboureau, Savennières, Loire, France 2018 93 £28 Cru, Hedonism
This 1ha plot surrounds the château of the same name, planted on sandy loam soils covering a bedrock of rhyolite and micro-granites. It’s expressive in character, open and accessible, with zesty lemon citrus and yellow fruit – but you’ll still find Savennières depth of flavour and mineral power. Steely and firm, this still has years of life ahead. Drink
2021-2030 Alc 14.5%
ORANGE WINE Orange or amber wine is a new addition to our pairing arsenal – with its dramatic colour adding to the visual appeal of this dish. There’s also a savouriness about it that is perfect with onions, although being a young wine you get an element of fragrance too – a really exciting combination.
Try: Didebuli, Orange Kisi, Kakheti, Georgia 2020 90
£9.95 The Wine Society With orange wine, Georgia, the cradle of wine, immediately comes to mind. This great-value example gets its colour, and tannic grip, from being fermented on skins for 2-3 weeks in clay qvevri buried in the ground. Long, rounded, textural and approachable, with flavours of citrus, red apple skin and sweet spice.
Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12% D