MY PERFECT DAY IN ROME

MORNING

Waking up under giant reproduction wine labels and finding eight of your favourite wines chilling in place of the minibar, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re still dreaming, but no, this is par for the course at Hotel de’ Ricci*. Drag yourself away from such a paradise, stock up with pizza bianca, the local speciality focaccia, at Forno Campo de’ Fiori*, and say arrivederci to Roma to hit the road, heading south for the Castelli Romani wine area just half an hour away.

Make your first stop at the Villa Simone winery (see p100) near Monte Porzio Catone – in town there is an interesting wine museum that reopens in 2022 – to tap into the wisdom of local winemaker guru Lorenzo Costantini and try his wines.

LUNCH & AFTERNOON

From here it’s just five minutes to the hilltop town of Frascati, the main centre.

Park in front of grand 16th-century Villa Aldobrandini and stroll through the historic centre to Osteria dell’Olmo* for an informal lunch of porchetta and cheese served by colourful character Remigio (above). In Castelli Romani you’re spoilt for choice with so many villas, villages and wineries to visit, so plan a return trip, but make time for the friendly Gabriele Magno winery (see p100) at Grottaferrata. Try the small range at the idyllic cellar location among the vines or at La Torretta villa surrounded by lush gardens.

EVENING

Back on the road, pass scenic lake Albano to reach the charming hillside village of Cori, 45 minutes out to the southeast, the perfect place to stretch your legs and work up an appetite. Wander under arches, up steps and past frescoed churches to reach the site of the ancient Roman Tempio di Ercole, with its striking columns and wide-open views.

Back down the hill, check in at the Cincinnato Wine Resort* for a delicious dinner with the winery’s own olive oil and local-variety Bellone and Nero Buono wines before stretching out under the sheets against a bedhead made from wine barrels, with postcard-pretty views of Cori through the window.

For details of entries marked with an asterisk (*), please see p101.