Seyssuel: a taste of the future – Walls’ selection of six

3 Pierre-Jean Villa, Esprit d’Antan Viognier, Collines Rhodaniennes 2019 94

N/A UK pierre-jean-villa.fr

Pierre-Jean Villa was an early pioneer of Seyssuel, and his Esprit d’Antan white is just as good as his red of the same name. It has a touch of peach to the mandarin fruit, and a good sense of generosity on the palate; a little jasmine that reminds you of its closeness to Condrieu. There’s good tension and freshness, and it’s better balanced than many Condrieu 2019s. Not long, but great purity and personality, with a saline finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alcohol 14%

4 Pierre Gaillard, Asiaticus, Collines Rhodaniennes 2019 94

£25 (ib) The Big Red Wine Co

All destemmed, aged for 18 months in 50% new oak barrels. Displays the roasted spices on the nose that are so characteristic of this cuvée: cardamom, cumin, hot sand. Medium- to full-bodied, it has presence and concentration on the palate, with furry tannins. The oak is present but wellintegrated – extracted but not overly thick. It’s a big style, and will age with interest.

Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13%

5 Cave Yves Cuilleron, Ripa Sinistra, Collines Rhodaniennes 2018 93

£41.63 Christopher Keiller

Has depth and intensity on the nose, with pure blackberry fruit and blackberry sauce – it’s almost plum sauce. This is more concentrated than most Seyssuels, but it works – it’s not overextracted or overripe. Fresh, bold and intense, with very wellintegrated oak. Well balanced – an unusually ageworthy Seyssuel. Fairly long finish. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.5%

Domaine Stéphane Ogier, L’Ame Soeur Syrah de Seyssuel, Collines Rhodaniennes 2018 93

£36-£43.33 Laithwaites, Millésima, Montrachet

I love the nose – blueberries and lilies in a vivid floral display; the 4% Viognier really works well in here. It has concentration and weight on the palate, with balanced acidity. Captures the finesse of the place, but has a little more weight and presence than some Seyssuels. Very well balanced, harmonious, soft and yielding – and very drinkable. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 14%

Domaine Bott, Kamaka, Collines Rhodaniennes 2019 92

£35 (ib) Lay & Wheeler

Graeme Bott originates from New Zealand; Kamaka means ‘rock’ in Maori, referring to the remarkably rocky schistous vineyard. There’s a good sense of purity, with aromas of liquorice, graphite and blackberry. Medium-bodied, not overly ripe, it’s a well-balanced, elegant 2019 Seyssuel with a svelte, direct style and very fine tannins. Not terribly complex, but a very enjoyable wine. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%

François Villard, Seul en Scène, Collines Rhodaniennes 2018 92

£28.33 (ib, 2015) Seckford Wines

Gives off a deep, intense cloud of Syrah spice. There’s a pronounced stemmy element here. Fuller in body than a typical Seyssuel, with gently warming alcohol and tangy raspberry acidity. Needs more time for the stems to fully integrate. 85% whole bunch. Aged for 18 months in 50% new oak barrels. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 13.5% D