Food & wine wisdom
Decanter contributing editor Fiona Beckett shares her food and wine pairing expertise
FAIR WEATHER FRIEND SMOKED SALMON
I maintain smoked salmon is a fairweather friend, even though it’s not my go-to with the wine with which it’s most often associated, Champagne. Fine with a canapé, especially if it includes a blob of sour cream or cream cheese, and a blanc de blancs is a great choice with scrambled egg (though it’s the egg that makes the match). But with a plate of smoked salmon I’d choose something more flattering. Sauvignon Blanc, especially Loire Sauvignon, is particularly delicious, but any crisp white such as Albariño or Assyrtiko would work, as would a genuinely dry Riesling. And Sherry lovers will be outraged if I don’t mention manzanilla, even though I don’t think it’s a particularly Christmassy choice. (Personally – whisper it – I’m a fan of a gently peaty malt whisky with smoked salmon...)
TRICKY CUSTOMER TRIFLE
Should you drink Sherry with a Sherry trifle? Depends on your palate, I guess, but for me it’s too much of a good thing. I’d rather have a light Moscatel that echoes those raisiny flavours. That would also be a good choice with an orangey trifle, as not all trifles contain Sherry these days. Rhubarb trifle, for example, is a walk in the park in comparison – rhubarb being a good foil for a lighter dessert wine like a Sauternes (of which there are some excellent examples around this Christmas). You get into choppier waters with chocolate trifles. A sweet red such as Recioto della Valpolicella should hit the mark, especially if the trifle also includes cherries. (Better, in my view, than a late bottled vintage or other ruby Port, which are too alcoholic.)
For more food and wine pairings, check out Fiona’s website matchingfoodandwine.com