EXPLAINEDSuperTuscans
The term ‘SuperTuscan’ is often used to describe some of Tuscany’s top red wines, such as Tignanello, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. The wines are highquality reds and whites – normally with a price to match – and are made from non-indigenous varieties or using blends not allowed under Tuscan wine law.
BIRTH OF A MOVEMENT
Back in the 1960s, some Tuscan producers began experimenting with non-native grape varieties brought in from Bordeaux, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
Sassicaia is considered the first SuperTuscan. Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta had been making the wine for private consumption since 1948 from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vines planted in Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast – an area not previously considered particularly worthwhile wine country, but ideal for the French varieties. The first commercial release was the 1968 vintage, however due to Tuscany’s strict denominazione laws the wine had to be labelled as Vina da Tavola or ‘table wine’.
These laws not only restricted the use of non-indigenous varieties, they even prescribed a Chianti Classico recipe that was detrimental to the wine’s quality: 100% Sangiovese Chianti was banned, and the blend had to include certain lower quality varieties, including at least 10% white varieties.
A movement therefore began among the quality-minded Chianti producers. One of the first was Antinori, whose 1971 Tignanello was a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards within the Chianti Classico zone, but declassified to Vino da Tavola.
As these wines from within and beyond Chianti punched well above their lowly Vino da Tavola status, they collectively became known as SuperTuscans. The term became synonymous with adventurous winemaking, and with producers who liked to experiment with French barriques and new viticultural methods.
EVOLVING CATEGORY
Nowadays, SuperTuscan wines can have IGT, DOC or DOCG status. For instance, Sassicaia has its own subappellation, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, and the IGT classification was created in 1992 specifically to recognise the quality of these ‘outsider’ wines.
Chianti laws have since changed in an effort to attract the three SuperTuscans from the Classico zone – Tignanello, Cepparello and Flaccianello – back into the appellation, resulting in adjustments to the blend requirements and eventually banning the inclusion of white grapes completely in 2006.
However, while these three wines can now legally be labelled as Chianti Classico DOCG, they have thus far remained under the IGT classification.
SUPERTUSCANS: IN THE GLASS Antinori, Solaia 2018 98
£183.83 (ib)-£285 Bordeaux Index, Honest Grapes, Millésima, Wineye
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Franc, from southwest-facing slopes in the sunniest 20ha part of Tignanello’s hillside home. Bursting with ripe raisins, blackcurrants and cherries. The texture is so enjoyable, mouthwatering and subtle with creamy touches around the sides. Depth and elegance, juicy and plush but at the same time this has a quiet personality. Delicious. Has a long life ahead. Drink 2022-2033 Alcohol 15%
Tua Rita, Redigaffi 2018 97
£166.68-£228 Cru, Hedonism, Laithwaites, Petersham Cellar
The wine that started it all for Tua Rita: 100% Merlot grown on clay-pebbly soil. 2018 was a fresher and cooler vintage in general and has produced an elegant version of Redigaffi. Lively aromas of tomato leaf, toasted oak and smoky liquorice mingle with complex flavours of cream, spice and dark plums. Luxurious, velvet-textured and a touch sappy. Long.
Drink 2023-2038 Alc 14.5%
Ornellaia, Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, Bolgheri 2018 95
£42.88-£58.50 Delivery Wine Co, Handford, Harvey Nichols, JN Wine, Lay & Wheeler, Majestic 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 17% Petit Verdot. Le Serre Nuove’s approachable style comes from younger vines or those on lighter, sandier soils, while retaining its potential to age in bottle. Sophisticated with smooth appeal, forward-flowing, velvety fruit well defined and persistent. Tannins from both fruit and oak are in sync. Drink 2021-2031 Alc 14%