CERVERA’S PICK: 10 RIOJA GARNACHA WINES TO SEEK OUT
Ojuel, Fuente León Garnacha Blanca 2019 91
N/A UK ojuelwine.com
After reviving supurao, a traditional sweet wine made from dehydrated grapes, Miguel Martínez continues to explore the highaltitude vineyards of Sierra de Moncalvillo. This limited release (a little more than 600 bottles) was fermented with 30% skins. There is something wild about the wine, with dried herbs, white fruit and a nice tension on the palate. Drink 2021-2024 Alcohol 13%
1 Cornelio Dinastía, Vega Vella Garnacha Blanca Fermentada en Huevo de Hormigón 2020 90
N/A UK bodegascornelio.com
An organic wine sourced from vineyards grown on lime/clay soils in Rioja Oriental. The style is opulent and fruit-driven (pear, peach), probably due to the fact that the wine has been aged in egg-shaped concrete vats, with smoke notes in the background. A rich, crowd-pleasing Garnacha Blanca. 2,500 bottles produced. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13%
2 Bodegas Manzanos, Finca Manzanos Garnacha 2020 92
£10.99 (2019) Alliance Wine, The Twisted Cork, Turton Wines
The grapes for this young, inexpensive red, which has barely six months of ageing in American oak, are from an 80ha vineyard in San Adrián, Navarra. It delivers lots of floral and blueberry aromas on the nose, while the palate is fresh and delicious. A great example of how Garnacha can bring endless pleasure. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.5%
3 Bodegas Valdemar, La Gargantilla 2016 92
POA Berkmann Wine Cellars
Valdemar’s long-standing passion for Garnacha dates back to a varietal reserva from grapes grown at El Marquesado in the Ocón valley (Rioja Oriental) during the 1980s. This lush 21st-century version focuses on La Gargantilla, a plot located at 580m. Aromas of ripe strawberry, crème caramel and violets; a round palate with integrated oak and a long, expressive finish. 5,000 bottles. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5%
4 Contino, Garnacha 2019 92
£26.80 Christopher Keiller, Christopher Piper Garnacha specialist Jorge Navascués took over the winemaking at Contino in 2017 and has made his mark with this red from a beautiful property that’s rich in alluvial soils, stretching along a meander of the Ebro river not far from Logroño. The wine has herbal, sarsaparilla and kirsch aromas. It’s full and ripe, yet subtle and round, with lovely floral character, making for a beautiful expression of Garnacha. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 14%
Bodegas Bilbaínas, Viña Pomal Vinos Singulares de Garnacha 2017 91
£36.50 Decántalo, Vinissimus
Bodegas Bilbaínas sources its Garnacha from Tudelilla in Rioja Oriental. Coming from old vines grown on the stony soils of the La Pedriza area, the best grapes are destined for this ambitious and rather powerful red which nevertheless still manages to convey the variety’s most charming expression of liqueur fruit, violets and wild herbs. About 3,000 bottles.
Drink 2021-2026 Alc 15%
Miguel Merino, La Insula 2019 91
N/A UK miguelmerino.com
This new release comes from an ungrafted 1,000m2 plot on sandy soils next to the Ebro river in Briones – the chances are that it is pre-phylloxera. The wine has herbal, peppery aromas and a fragrant, almost ethereal palate. Despite the slightly warm finish, this is a beautiful, pure Garnacha. Unfortunately, production is limited to the one 500-litre cask it ages in for 12 months.
Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%
5 Palacios Vinos de Finca, Proelio Viñedos Viejos 2019 91
N/A UK palaciosvinosdefinca.com
The Alto Najerilla valley’s cold continental climate results in a lighter style. Grapes are from very old vines grown in the villages of Cárdenas and Badarán, fermented with roughly 20% of stems and aged in foudre for 12 months so the fruit comes through beautifully. Still young, but pure, crisp and really enjoyable. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14.5%
Arizcuren, Solo Garnacha Amphora 2019 90
N/A UK arizcurenvinos.com Architect-turned-winemaker Javier Arizcuren makes this from two vineyards on sandy soils at 550m and 600m on the slopes of Mount Yerga. The wine is aged in two amphorae, resulting in barely 700 bottles. The 2019 vintage was a low-yielding harvest, so the fruit feels very ripe, but the palate is fresh and light- to medium-bodied, with smooth tannins. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14%
Paco García, Garnacha 2018 90
£15 (2015) The General Wine Co, Vinterest
With his wife Ana, Juan Bautista García redirected his father’s wine business to reach young consumers. They now experiment with different styles and varieties. This Garnacha, from alluvial soils at the western end of Rioja Oriental, offers appealing strawberry and dairy aromas. The palate is lively, with bright acidity, and the oak goes unnoticed. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14% D