THE WHITE RIOJA RENAISSANCE
These 20 top barrel-matured whites show clearly how Rioja’s winemakers are placing an increased emphasis on rediscovering the capacity of their grapes to produce wines of impressive character and excellent value
When you look at the numbers, white Rioja really has very little going for it. White varieties don’t even make up 10% of the total Rioja vineyard, while the leading variety, Viura, has acquired a depressing reputation for dullness and unappealing flab. Surely there is little chance of these wines holding their own among the great whites of the world?
To be frank, it all depends. Rioja’s whites fall into three distinct categories. First there are the youthful, ‘made last year, drink this year’ wines, coolfermented and fresh. While they may be produced from Viura, they can’t be accused of being flabby. They do the job, especially in our ever-warmer summers. However, these clean-cut, unoaked whites don’t speak of their origins.
At the opposite end are the great whites of Rioja. The two most famous are the long-aged López de Heredia,
Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva and the Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial from Marqués de Murrieta. These are wines of immense pedigree and are deserved collectors’ items. Their reputations are established.
In between, there is a wide range – and that’s where the real interest and excitement can be found today. If you haven’t been drinking white Rioja, then this is the time to start. Our blind tastings yielded really impressive results.
Of the Viñedo Singular wines sampled (see ‘Panel tasting’, p66), 20% were white and all of them scored 90 points or more. The Viñedo Singular category can only improve the profile of white Rioja, since it highlights the specific origins of the wine. We also tasted white reservas and gran reservas, to assess the quality of wines which declared a defined age in barrel. Again, of the 40 or so submitted, 35 scored 90 points or more – an impressive strike rate.
I have featured the top wines from that tasting on the following pages. Also turn to the Viñedo Singular panel tasting report and you will find more that we rated highly. In addition, the wines listed in these pages represent classics in the very promising middle ground. Wines such as Placet, originally created by Spain’s white wine magician Rafael Palacios at his family’s winery Palacios Remondo; or Remelluri Blanco, produced by Telmo Rodríguez, a miraculous blend of varieties.
CHANGING TIMES
Several producers used to make white wines but stopped because they felt out of fashion. José Luis Ripa at López de Heredia recalls a time when their white vines were grafted over with red varieties. Now they cannot keep up with the demand for white wines. Among López de Heredia’s neighbours in Haro, only La Rioja Alta and Roda currently don’t produce a white.
Andreas Kubach MW, MD of Península Vinicultores, says: ‘Our focus is on the genetically diverse old vineyards of Tempranillo and the field blends in Rioja Alavesa. We didn’t intend to make any white Rioja, but then we realised that many parcels of Tempranillo have some beautiful old Viura planted on the hilltops which used to be blended into the reds. We are now picking these separately to see if we can make interesting wines that do not need cellar work to acquire some personality. Viura is obviously not very aromatic, but we think it can yield beautiful texture and a gastronomic wine.’
In holding back on the cellar work, Kubach speaks for a rising number of producers who have eschewed the layering of American oak in favour of a return to concrete or larger oak foudres.
Of course, white Rioja is not all about Viura. Tempranillo Blanco – the mutation discovered on a red Tempranillo vine – has seen a rapid rise in popularity, undoubtedly helped by its recognisable name. Several of the earlier releases did not express much character, and I was not enthusiastic. However, it’s good to note that progress is being made and two of the top wines in this tasting were indeed 100% Tempranillo Blanco. The other variety with a far longer history is Maturana Blanca, possibly the earliest mention in Rioja of a variety. There are precious few examples, but all of them hold promise.
1 Bodegas Bilbaínas, Viña Pomal Tempranillo Blanco Reserva 2015 96
£43.80 Hedonism
Gloriously smoky aromas, intensely flavoured and jumping with lime-juice acidity – this is a wine that is hard to ignore. From vineyards in Haro at 450m and Tudelilla at 740m. Part of the successful Bilbaínas experimental project, exploring monovarietal wines with the Viñedos Singulares series. This is a very convincing expression of Tempranillo Blanco.
Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12.5%
‘The Viñedo Singular category can only improve the profile of white Rioja, since it highlights the specific origins of the wine’
2 Bodegas de la Marquesa, Valserrano Blanco Gran Reserva 2015 95
£36.50-£38 Davy’s, Private Cellar
The fifth-generation family owners at this bodega based in Rioja Alavesa have inherited some wonderful old underground cellars. This white is more restrained in style, with a distant impression of oak. A blend of Viura and Malvasia, the palate reveals layers of fruit and sweet spices, with lime freshness. A powerful, complex finish.
Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13.5 %
3 Bodegas San Esteban, Tierras de Murillo Gran Reserva 2013 95
N/A UK bodegastierrasdemurillo.es
Founded in 1953, this bodega declares itself Rioja’s first co-op. The gran reserva draws on the 350 members’ oldest Viura vines in the highest vineyards, which were traditionally interplanted with the reds in a field blend. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in French barriques for 24 months. It still carries fine exotic fruits, tumbling into a clean, almost steely finish. Given the altitude, the wine is vividly fresh – and low in alcohol. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 11%
4 Bodegas Vinícola Real, 200 Monges Blanco Gran Reserva 2008 95
N/A UK vinicolareal.com
The first vintage of a white gran reserva for Vinícola Real, made from bush-vine Viura from the Najerilla and Iregua valleys. It is barrel-fermented then left for two years in barrel. Despite its age, the style is youthful with a punch of citrus. Plenty of energy, with some years ahead. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13%
5 Marqués de Murrieta, Capellanía Reserva 2016 95
£28.95-£39.99 Divine Fine Wine, EW Wines, Fareham Wine Cellar, Hedonism,T Wright, Tanners, Waud Wines
Murrieta’s Capellanía has become a classic. A single-vineyard wine from the Ygay estate at about 485m, produced from Viura vines planted in 1945. Aged for 16 months in new French oak, the wine is pale but expressive in aroma, with notes of pear and toasted nuts, while the palate is exceptionally lively, with pears and almonds following through.
Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13.5 %
6 Nivarius, Edición Limitada Reserva 2018 95
£17.90 (2017) Northern Wine & Beer Co
Nivarius is Rioja’s white wine specialist. The name is derived from the Spanish for snow (nieve), which is a regular occurrence in winter, given that the vineyards are at 800m above sea level. This is a blend of 80-yearold Viura with Maturana Blanca (30%), which has been fermented and aged for nine months in French oak. It has an attractively fresh, dancing palate with a fine mineral character beneath it. Very long. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14%
7 Viña Ijalba, Ijalba Reserva 2018 95
N/A UK ijalba.com
Ijalba has been producing organic wines since 1992, and works with the rarer grape varieties of Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Tinta and Graciano. This blend (50% Viura) is fermented in concrete and spends 16 months in French Allier oak barriques. Honeyed with exotic notes, the mid-palate is refreshingly lean, and it ends with a long finish with good intensity and elegance. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13.3%
8 Barón de Ley, Tres Viñas Blanco Reserva 2013 94
N/A UK barondeley.com
This is the white partner to the producer’s 7 Viñas red. Golden in colour and golden in flavour – it’s a rich approach to white Rioja. The palate offers generous, succulent cape gooseberry fruit accompanied by mineral notes. It’s very long and very fresh.
Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12.5%
‘Viura is not very aromatic, but we think it can yield beautiful texture and gastronomic wine’
Andreas Kulbach MW, Península Viticultores
9 Bodegas Tobía, Oscar Tobía Blanco Reserva 2016 94
£16.99 Ake & Humphris
This blend of varieties – 60% Tempranillo Blanco with Viura, Maturana Blanca (all from Rioja Alta) and a dash of Malvasia
(from Rioja Oriental) – celebrates the diversity of Rioja’s whites. These are fermented and aged separately in 70% French and 30% American oak barrels, and blended after 18 months. A lean, pure impression layered with fine oak and notes of mocha. Crisp intensity, with a saline finish.
Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.8%
10 Paco García, Tempranillo Blanco Reserva 2016 94
£14.50-£22.25 (2018) Humble Grape, JN Wine The current owners took over their parents’ bodega in Rioja Oriental in 2008, and have relaunched and re-energised the wines. This Tempranillo Blanco, planted at 550m in 2014, has elegance and refinement, showing plenty of lemon curd, layered with punchy acidity and saline freshness. Very long. Aged in second-use Burgundy barrels for three years. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14.5%
‘If you haven’t been drinking white Rioja, then this is the time to start’
11 Bodegas Alvia, Livius Barrel Fermented White 2018 93
£26.50 Neill Wine
This classic old-vine Rioja comes from vineyards in Rioja Alta that date back to 1903-1907. A blend of Viura and Malvasia, the wine is aged in French and Hungarian oak, and has a typically smoky, cedar nose. The palate is fresh, layered with creamy oak, and has a clean, saline character. Drink 2021-2024. Alc 13%
12 Bodegas Amézola de la Mora, Iñigo Amézola Blanco Reserva 2012 93
£24.99 Noble Grape
A classic style, made by sisters María and Cristina, in memory of their late father, Iñigo, co-founder of the winery with his brother Javier. Produced using the selected late-harvesting of a specific Viura vineyard, then fermented and aged for six months in new French oak. Reveals a succulent stone-fruit palate with a fine creamy texture, finishing with a lift of spice.
Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14%
13 Bodegas Vinícola Real, 200 Monges Blanco Reserva 2010 93
N/A UK vinicolareal.com
Take your pick: either the first vintage of the gran reserva (2008, p81) or this 2010 reserva. In our tasting, these two were the most mature vintages entered. This reserva is definitely for lovers of traditional white Rioja. The aromatics speak very clearly of a classic oaked Rioja, while the palate is linear and citrussy, full-bodied and intense.
Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%
14 Lar de Paula, Blanco Reserva 2016 93
N/A UK lardepaula.com
A blend of Viura and Malvasia, this wine is one of a limited-edition series, fermented in new French and American oak, followed by 12 months in barrel and 12 months in bottle. It’s a wine that unfolds quietly. Golden in colour, the palate is delicately herbal and lightly flavoured with exotic fruit. A long, subtle finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%
15 Muga, Flor de Muga Blanco Reserva 2018 93
£34 Ultracomida
The Muga family’s new top-tier white, a fascinating tri-varietal blend of Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Maturana Blanca. The owners take scrupulous care with their choice of oak, and have their own cooper (the oak comes from Nevers and Bertranges in France). After six months in oak, the wine is aged in a concrete ‘egg’. The honeyed aroma suggests exotica, while the palate has notes of roasted caramel and Seville orange marmalade, finishing with a fine texture. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13.5%
16 Remírez de Ganuza, Blanco Reserva 2018 93
£18- £25.83 (ib) Brunswick Fine Wines, Cru, Starling Wines, Wineye
Remírez de Ganuza’s whites have started to make their mark, this one predominantly Viura with a mix of Malvasia, Garnacha and other varieties from the Sierra Cantabria foothills. The palate is honeyed, with a line of citrus running through, finishing supple with creamy textured oak – and a distinctly youthful lift. Drink 2021-2026 Alc 13.5%
17 Bodegas Muriel, Viña Muriel Blanco Reserva 2014 92
£20 Exel, Iconic Wines, Moreno Wines
From 30-year-old Viura vineyards planted outside Elciego. Fermented in French oak barrels and aged eight months in barrel, it then spends 18 months in bottle before release. Fine, toasty cedar aromas. Expect echoes of lemon and a stony minerality in the mouth. Finishes long, with a limpid freshness. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12.5%
18 Carlos Serres, Onomástica Blanco Reserva 2017 92
£25 (2014) Le Bon Vin
Carlos Serres’ winery stands at the entrance to Haro, and Onomástica Blanco Reserva comes from 40-year-old Viura vines within their local 60-year-old vineyard. It spends 24 months in French and American oak. The aromas are pure and citrussy; the palate is ripe and honeyed, with a long, clean finish.
Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.5%
19 Martínez Lacuesta, Blanco Clásico 2018 92
£29.50 Vindependents
A ‘new’ wine that’s an homage to traditional fine, long-aged white Riojas of the 1960s and 1970s. The Viura comes from vineyards around Haro. Aged 24 months in mediumtoast French oak, it opens ripe and honeyed, with an echo of sweetness and exotic notes of passion fruit. A long, intense, mouthwatering finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13.15%
20 Montecillo, Viña Monty Blanco Reserva 2017 91
POA Ucopia Wines
The Viña Monty brand was revived for the winery’s 150th anniversary in 2020. The Viura vines (more than 85 years old) grow at 650m in Sotés in Rioja Alta. Although the 2017 vintage was renowned for the severe frosts across Europe, these vines came through well. The wine is starting to show secondary development, with fresh pineapple leading into a more roasted fruit character. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13% D